I'm torn as to what to do now - Staffy ownership

Gee wrote:Thanks for the replies. I get the feeling though that many a people don't feel leaving a dog alone on a typical 9-5 shift or similar is acceptable. But if I am improving that dogs life and is already used to be left alone does this help?

What are your thoughts, I would be interested in hearing your opinion.

wentzer wrote:Personally, I think if you want the dog, give the dog everything that it needs when you are at work, and when you are home give it the best care out there. then why not? I don't see an issuse with the dog being home form 7-4 er whatever hours, as long as you love em, take care of him, and give him attention. whats great is having that long shift horrible day at work where everything goes wrong, coming hom and seeing that face and getting kisses. then everything is all better

jstaff wrote:I think it would be an improvement for the rescue dog and could save its life. By the amount of research you are doing and your answers you seem like you would be a very responsibler handler so I would never discourage a rescue.

I left my English Bulldog home alone for longer than 10 hours at a stretch because of work and I wasn't always able to find someone to help look after her. I felt terrible doing it but she was okay most of the time but she did do a little damage to the house every once in awhile.

That being said I would not ever think of leaving my AmStaff Suki alone for that long because I know she would destroy things and bark. She is okay for 4-5 hours but we slowly built up to that for a year.

All dogs have different tempermants as well. Some do well on their own and others don't so there is no way to know for sure.

jshrew wrote:Ledger is left home alone when I'm on nights as he sleeps through and tbh he would probably do the same in the day I'm just more cautious of him being anxious when disturbed by postman etc so he goes to my parents but the rescue centre matched him to me as he had been left for 8hrs a day in a flat with his previous owners

Look into dog walkers in your area some are very reasonably priced and would be a replacement for your brother if you can afford it

russdogmum wrote:my BF works 6am-4pm soon to be 7am-7pm and I work every now and then as I am a relief teacher, sometimes I am home all week but sometimes I work every day thats 8:30am-4pm so Russell is often left home for that time on his own.

whenever I leave him I fill a kong with peanut butter, sometimes hide treats around the yard or sometime put treats into a plastic bottle with the lid on tight so he has something to occupy him for at least a few hours.

to be honest I think he sleeps in the sun most of the day, sometimes I'll come home and his toys are just strewn all over the yard and I think 'well he's had a fun day today!'

I think whatever you choose your dog will be fine as long as you give it a loving home

lynne wrote:could you get a dog walker to come in and take it out midday

Ty wrote:You sound like a very responsible person. You have thought this through and have been taking all advice on board. I agree with Meg here in that you will be providing a loving home which is the most important thing.

shakespearesdog wrote:I suggest you get an older dog. Not nesscarily aged but perhaps a dog of two or three. Most rescues won't rehome to people that work full time which is an awful shame.
I think the dog would be fine with being left all day. I work full time and yes my mum and sister are sometimes at home but not always. When he was a pup he was very destructive and couldn't be left but now hes older he just sleeps all day anyway. I've left toys and chews for him to occupy himself with but he'd rather chill out on the sofa all day!
It might be better if you got two dogs as they'd be company for each other, or possibly a cat?
If you are worried about the mid day walk you could possibly get a dog walker, although they can be pricey, i'm not sure what your financial situation is like.

vanessa wrote:
it is different if you have a dog....work all day , and then come home and don't even acknowledge the dog or give it love or exercise. I am sure there are heaps of dogs living that sort of lousy life out there, just languishing in the backyard... People have to work for a living ( and to get money to keep a dog in the first place! ) and I think what you are suggesting could work very well. A good supply of chew toys...food filled kongs, the radio on.. I reckon you are on to a winner!

http://www.barktalk.com/leavedogalone.html - Older dogs can be left alone for longer periods than puppies, but it's best to try to limit the length of time to no longer than 8-9 hours, even for an adult dog.
Keep in mind that it's best to set up a routine for your dog so he'll know when to expect to be fed and to be let out. Sticking with your routine will be extremely helpful in reducing anxiety in your dog, because he'll learn to know what to expect.

Next, try this simple LEAVE AND RETURN training method (it may take several days or even weeks to accomplish, but your dog should eventually learn if you are consistent).
Remember that your dog takes his cues from you. If you are anxious or worried or upset, he will be, too. So begin your training with a positive, upbeat, natural demeanor. Gather your things as if you were leaving to go to work, then, just before walking out the door, gently but firmly announce "quiet" and then immediately leave and close the door. Stand quietly outside the door and count to 10. Walk back into the house. If your dog stayed quiet the entire 10-count, praise him with the words "good quiet." If not, firmly command "quiet" while gently holding his muzzle.
Repeat this exercise over and over, each time staying "gone" for a slightly longer period of time. Be extremely still so your dog does not know you haven't really left! Always praise his "good quiet" on your return.
If you plan to leave your dog in a restricted area of the house, then you'll need to place him in that area when you practice this exercise.
This training method may take several weeks to accomplish, but with persistence, your dog will learn to be quiet when you leave, and, more importantly, to expect your eventual return, which will alleviate his stress while you're gone.
If you must leave your dog alone frequently during the week days, be sure to make extra time for him in the evenings or the mornings, and especially on the weekends, for play time and exercise time and companionship time with you.

http://dogtrainer.quickanddirtytips.com/dog-home-alone-all-day.aspx - Make ’Em Tired
The best thing you can do for your home-alone dog is supply some good, hard, first-thing-in-the-morning exercise. You saw that coming, right? How much exercise -- and what kind -- depends on your dog’s age, fitness, body type, and state of health, and also on the weather. Is your dog old, arthritic, and short-nosed, or is she an adolescent Border Collie mix? Is it 90 degrees out, 15, or 55? Check with your vet if you have questions about your dog’s exercise tolerance. The result you’re looking for is that your dog gets home and flops down on his bed to snooze. For most dogs, off-leash running, trotting, and sniffing are ideal, because they supply not only varied physical exercise, but mental stimulation as well.
Keep ’Em Busy
Next, put away your dog’s food bowl and use food-dispensing toys instead. Some toys--such as the Kong--can be stuffed. I often suggest a mixture of half canned and half dry food. For champion chewers, freeze the stuffed toy until it’s hard, so as to make a long-lasting excavation project. Other toys release dry food piece by piece when the dog knocks or pushes them around. Some of these toys offer variable difficulty levels, so you can frustrate your dog just enough to keep her active and engaged, like Grandma at the slots. Did you forget to wash out the food toys from the day before? Then take your dog’s entire breakfast ration of dry food and scatter it on the floor as you leave the house. Successful foraging is most dogs’ idea of a good time.
Do test-drive chew toys when you’re home and can supervise. Many food-dispensing toys will stand up to all but a minority of jaws, but others aren’t suited to hardcore chewers and may crack. If your dog can break the toy or chew pieces off, he and it need a chaperone. Rawhides and natural bones are also unsuitable for a solo dog.

http://dogs.blurtit.com/q760350.html
Its absolutely okay to leave your dog alone for long periods of time if you so require certain days of the week due to work or any other reason. However, its best to make sure you leave your dog in the most suitable and appropriate comfortable conditions as possible when you do so. Its going to be different for different kind of dogs. I have a medium sized dog that I leave alone at home for 8-10 hours a day 5 days a week as I have to go work!

She is not let to roam freely in the house though, as she has the typical chew-it-all-and-destroy tendency. I purchased a round cage (~5ft diameter) that is available in most pet stores. I place this cage in the center of my large kitchen/living room. This way, even if she is confined to the cage, it feels more comfortable for her as she can "see" a large open area. The cage is on tiled floors as she is capable of destroying the carpet. I leave a rug in there sometimes and/or turn on central heat if it is a cold day.

I make sure I leave her plenty of water. I also give her a small bone or a similar treat so she can chew on it during the day. There are also 5-6 toys in there (some squeaky toys and ropes for biting into) so she can play and relieve some stress. Occasionally I leave the living room TV or radio on low volume so there is something to keep her from getting bored.

Before I leave for work, I do play with her for about 5 minutes alongside getting ready to go to work. I make sure she has done her potty in the morning at least once. She can go twice sometimes - once as soon as we wake up and once just before I leave for the day. So I give her the opportunity twice before I go. She generally eats only once during the day (in the evenings), but sometimes I also give her a little in the mornings if I feel she didn't eat enough the day before. If so, I make sure she does potty twice before I leave. I do not leave any foodfor her in her cage.

When I come back home, she is really happy to see me back. Occasionally she will try to nip my jeans or shirt sleeves trying to say "...you left me for a long time today!". But she is alright and has always been okay with this. I give her some love and take her outside immediately. She will always do potty soon. She has always been able to hold it for the 8-10 hours that I am gone.

Depending on how it is outside (it rains quite a bit where I live), I'll either take her out to the dog park or for a walk (for about 20 mins at least) or play with her at home. Occasionally she likes to play with other dogs and puppies in my neighborhood. After we get back from that I feed her.

Its very important to allow a dog to express himself/herself when you are with him/her. Allow them to bark ... Allow them free outside your house ... Allow them to run and sniff around for a bit. As long as they get to do this regularly, they will be okay with confinement for the 8-10 hours you have to leave them alone.

I'd be lying if I say I don't feel guilty about leaving her alone. But I realize she is okay with it, and so I know it is good this way. Far better than being in the wild or on the road or even in a Shelter or Kenne

http://www.cuhumane.org/topics/alone.html
Home Alone?
Basic Time Management for Your Dog
When was the last time you heard someone say, "I have more time on my hands than I know what to do with?" Probably never. Practically no one feels there are enough hours in the day. To make sure the dog gets his or her due, conscientious dog owners schedule time for walking and feeding the dog, training and playing games, and possibly also participating in organized dog sports, such as tracking, flyball, agility, or obedience. But how much thought do we give to how the dog spends the rest of her day, especially those portions of it when we are absent?

In the process of domestication, we've taken a species that is among the most intensely social in the animal kingdom and required them to spend much of their time alone. In late 20th-century American society, social isolation is an inescapable fact of existence for our canine companions. These hours spent away from the pack are stressful under the best of circumstances, and potentially damaging given the wrong conditions. As behaviorist and educator Linda Case explains in her recent book, The Dog: Its Behavior, Nutrition, and Health, separation stress frequently manifests itself in hyperactivity, destructive behaviors, and excessive vocalization. How can we minimize the negative aspects of this social deprivation and prevent the development of behavior problems?

Regular vigorous exercise and mental stimulation, adequate socialization, and interactive play are all part of a necessary daily routine for a well-adjusted dog. Proper confinement in your absence is another crucial, and frequently overlooked, aspect of dog care. Behaviorists, dog trainers, and veterinarians report that problems often develop in owner-absent dogs who are confined improperly, particularly those left in a dog crate for excessive periods of time or outside in the owner's yard. What types of problems arise under these conditions of confinement? How can we create an environment conducive to our dog's well-being?

Alone in the yard, the dog acutely experiences social deprivation and will bark, dig and chew to regain access to the pack or to relieve her discomfort. Left outside, most dogs will develop a barking problem. They may bark from boredom and to communicate with the absent pack (attention-seeking barking). They may bark in response to external stimuli (excitable or alarm barking). They may bark because of physical need (for food or water) or frustration (since their access to animals or objects outside the fence is blocked), or to convey a threat (stay off my territory). Excessive barking is largely self-reinforcing and, once established, can be very difficult to ameliorate as long as the dog remains outside.

Many dogs will develop a digging habit when left unsupervised in the yard. Some breeds are more prone to digging behaviors than others (just as certain breeds are more likely to engage in alarm barking), but most dogs will eventually dig in response to a scent, to bury something, to be reunited with their pack, to conserve or disperse heat, or to entertain themselves. Digging can also be highly self-reinforcing and resistant to attempts at extinction.

Destructive chewing is another behavior problem that can develop in dogs left outside. Adult dogs chew mainly to relieve anxiety or boredom, or simply for enjoyment. Like barking and digging, chewing is a natural canine activity that we can anticipate and channel. Obviously, if we are not present to intervene (i.e., substitute "legal" chew toys for inappropriate objects and offer praise for chewing the legal items), this behavior can result in destruction of property and serious harm to the dog, such as intestinal blockages or perforation.

A host of other problems are associated with outdoor confinement. Some dogs left alone outside will engage in self-mutilation (producing lick granulomas) to relieve their anxiety or boredom. The fence itself may intensify any underlying territorial aggression in susceptible dogs. The dog left outside may be subject to cruel or thoughtless behavior on the part of humans, with long-term behavioral consequences, or may be exposed to wild or stray animals, which can transmit parasites and disease. Outside dogs can develop storm phobias and are at risk of hypothermia and heatstroke. Some dogs left alone outside will learn to jump or scale the fence, or dig under it, or break through an electric fence, in order to relieve their distress or to pursue some external stimulus. Apart from the fact that running at large is prohibited by municipal ordinance in Champaign and Urbana and many outlying communities, loose dogs are at great risk of injury.

Prevention of these problems by proper confinement indoors is far easier than modifying undesirable behavior after it has been established. Once you have taught your dog the "house rules," she will be continually practicing her indoor living skills in your absence, rather than developing bad habits outdoors. Until she has proven herself trustworthy indoors, you'll need to provide her with a safe place to wait out your absence, such as a crate or a dog-proofed confinement area. It is essential to provide chew toys to occupy her, such as Nylabones or one or more of the "sustained-release food devices" (sterilized hollow bones or Kong toys stuffed with peanut butter, nutritionally balanced soft treats, mashed potatoes, or cheese cubes, or a Buster Cube, Activity Ball, or Roll-a-Treat filled with kibble). Do not leave her unsupervised with rawhide bones or chips, toys with squeakers, or even a rope toy if she is likely to shred and ingest it. Just as a yard is not a substitute for regular walks and interactive play, a crate is not a substitute for teaching your dog to chew only authorized chew objects. Make sure she has a solid record of being praised for chewing on legal objects.

Once your dog has mastered house rules and enjoys free run of at least part of the house, you may want to modify the environment slightly to prevent excessive barking. Block your dog's view of the street (close the drapes) or block off his access to rooms with front windows. Confined or free, make sure your dog receives exercise and the opportunity to eliminate before you leave. A regular schedule of activities will offset or reduce the distress your dog experiences during periods of social isolation. Provide ample mental stimulation, social interaction, and physical exercise during your leisure hours. As behaviorist and trainer Jean Donaldson, author of Culture Clash, has observed, most dogs are seriously underchallenged in their daily lives and underexposed to the outside world. Incorporate your dog as much as possible into your activities. Play games such as fetch, frisbee, hide and seek, find it, and tug (assuming your dog has been taught to take and release the tug toy on command). Take your dog to a training class to socialize him to other dogs and build his confidence.

Ironically, the very device designed to provide safe confinement indoors, the dog crate, is sometimes used, or misused, so that it creates problems rather than aiding in preventing them. Dogs confined in crates for long periods of time can develop undesirable behaviors, and excessive crating often exacerbates any underlying behavior problems. Overuse of the crate can result in a dog that is hyperexcitable outside of the crate. Conversely, some dogs that are crated too long become depressed. A preexisting problem such as aggression or timidity may intensify in response to the dog's frustration at being crated excessively. Used properly, however, a crate serves as your dog's den, providing security and comfort in your absence.

If you are confining your dog to a crate or a safe room until he learns the house rules, you or another family member should come home during the lunch hour if at all possible to provide social contact, fresh water, and the opportunity to eliminate. If this is not feasible, enlist the aid of a pet sitter, friend, or neighbor, at least initially. No dog should be crated throughout the day and again at night. As a rule of thumb, if you will be away for more than five or six hours at a time, your dog should be left in a confinement area (a dog-proofed room or portion of a room secured with barriers), rather than a crate. Puppies require special crating procedures. Consult the pamphlet by Nicki Meyer, Pet Owner's Guide to the Dog Crate, for further guidelines (available from CCHS).

Finally, be prepared to exercise your dog as soon as you arrive home. Whether he has been confined in your absence or has had free run of the house, you can't expect him to wait patiently after you get home from work while you put your feet up and read the paper. He has been coping with social deprivation all day and deserves your full attention as soon as you arrive. Of course you can't quit your job and put your life on hold to stay home with your dog, but with planning, preventative training, and proper confinement, you can make those unavoidable periods of social isolation much less stressful for him......Mary Stuart.

Pado wrote:I hope you do decide to get a dog because you sound like you will give some lucky 'unhomed' dog a wonderful life.

I mentioned in one of your other posts my dog is home 8 hrs a day during the work week. Dogs do sleep most of the day ... even on weekends when we are home he sleeps most of the day .... Puppies I do believe need more attention for the first year but you mentioned an older dog which I think will work perfectly.

Dogs in shelters are locked up in a cage pretty much all day and all night with brief walks. IMO you'd give one a much better life... Best of luck!