Eden Food?

http://uk.edenpetfoods.com/medium-kibble-12x5mm-43-p.asp

Thoughts on this food? It's what I desire to feed my puppy once he's ready.

The ingredients are:

Chicken, 19%, Chicken 17% (from Dried Chicken), Salmon, 16%,
Herring 14% (from Dried Herring), Potato 10%, Sweet Potato 5%, Chicken Fat 5%, Duck 4% (from Dried Duck), Whole Egg 3% (from Dried Egg), Chicken Gravy 2%, White Fish 2%, Lucerne, Pea Fibre, Mineral & Vitamins, Carrot, Spinach, Apple, Joint Support Pack (Glucosamine (355mg/Kg), MSM (355mg/Kg) & Chondroitin (250mg/Kg)), Rosehips, Camomile, Burdock Root, Aniseed & Fenugreek, Thyme, Marjoram, Oregano, Seaweed, Cranberry and Prebiotic FOS

Enriched with essential vitamins and oils, including high levels of delta-tocopherols which act as natural antioxidants. Contains no synthetic antioxidants.

My old girl is fed it, only UK food to have a 5 star rating on whichdogfood.co.uk

My other 2 are raw fed, but if I couldn't feed raw I'd feed Eden!

Is raw feeding better? And if so what kind of raw foods and in what portions do you feed them? |:

Raw feeding is the best way to feed IMO. But you need a chest freezer at least to make it worth it, there's a few threads on raw feeding, most of them by Ella.

https://staffy-bull-terrier.niceboard.com/t14787-raw-diet
https://staffy-bull-terrier.niceboard.com/t19197-what-s-in-the-bowl-today-graphic-photos-raw

Eden's a good food.

Eden or raw feeding?

Well, if you want to feed raw, you need to read up on it first - it isn't just a matter of chucking some raw meat into a bowl. It isn't for everyone.

Have a look through the links Stuart gave you. The following is very informative as well....

http://rawfed.com/myths/preymodel.html

I have read through them though I don't quite comprehend them to be honest. They don't say exactly what and in what quantity to feed them

Batman Attacks wrote:I have read through them though I don't quite comprehend them to be honest. They don't say exactly what and in what quantity to feed them

http://rawfed.com/myths/feedraw.html

"HOW MUCH DO I FEED?

This will also vary with your dog. A dog that is more active and has a higher metabolism will eat more, while a less active dog or one with a slower metabolism will eat less. Puppies will typically eat more than adults, since they need to fuel their rapidly growing body.

The recommended food amount is 2-3% of your dog's desired body weight per day. So for a 100lb dog, you will be feeding 2-3 pounds of food a day. If you are gorging and fasting, you may be feeding 6 pounds or more on a gorge day. A highly active dog may need closer to 3%, while a dog with slower metabolism may need closer to 2%.

How do you know if your dog is too fat or thin? You should be able to easily feel your dog's ribs and even see the outline of the last few floating ribs at the end of the ribcage that attaches to the vertebrae of the spine closest to the hips. You should not be able to see ALL the ribs, or the hip bones, or the vertebrae of the spine, just the outline of the last few floating ribs. If you stand above your dog, he should have a definite waist between his hips and ribcage. Remember that dogs are built differently from each other, so some may have a naturally stocky body that will not give you a waist no matter what you do. Know your dog!

For a puppy, feed 2-3% of his expected adult body weight per day. Puppies under 4 months of age are very good at self-regulating their food intake, and can be given the opportunity to eat at a carcass or raw meaty bone until they are full at each meal. Pick up the leftovers and feed them later. If the puppy starts gorging himself to the point he has a huge, swollen, distended belly, or if he is getting fat, regulate his portions at 2-3% of his adult body weight per day. If the pup is looking very skinny and is not putting on weight, get a fecal sample done to make sure he does not have worms, and then up his food intake if needed. Keep in mind that puppies grow at a slower, more regulated rate on raw food than on commercial foods. This translates to less chance of developing the bone and joint problems seen in puppies fed commercial foods. Do not force feed your pup in an effort to make it grow faster or bigger."

and....

"WHAT DO I FEED, THEN?

You can feed just about any prey animal that can run, swim, or fly. For examples of certain raw meaty bone "recipes", please visit Raw Fed Dogs. Here are some suggestions as well as helpful notes:


Whole Eggs
Beef (any parts, except dense weight-bearing bones)
Liver (any species)
Kidney (any species)
Green tripe
Heart (any species)
Spleen (any species)
Sweetbreads (any species)
Lung (any species)
Whole rabbits (or parts)
Chicken (whole or parts)
Turkey (whole or parts)
Quail
Pheasant
Duck
Goose

Pork
Lamb
Goat
Deer
Elk
Bison
Pronghorn antelope

Ostrich
Kangaroo
Emu
Whole fish (avoid fresh salmon)
Canned fish (use sparingly)
Rats
Squirrels
Mice
Moose


Here are some other helpful notes:



If you are feeding wild game, it is recommended that you check it thoroughly for shot and that you freeze it for at least 24 hours prior to feeding to kill any parasites. If you know your source, however, the freezing is not always necessary. It is just recommended. Be aware that upland game birds (quail, pheasant, dove, etc.) are all shot with lead shot. If a dog or cat ingests the lead pellets, lead poisoning can occur. So if you feed these animals, check them thoroughly for lead pellets. Wild game is a wonderful addition to any carnivore's diet.

Pacific salmonids carry a toxic parasite that can make dogs very sick. Freeze fresh raw salmon, steelhead, trout, and other salmonids for at least 24 hours before feeding to your dog; this thoroughly kills the parasite. Cooked salmon (or canned) is perfectly okay to feed. Fish is the only food that can also be fed cooked, as the bones remain soft and the meat keeps much of its integrity. When feeding whole fresh fish (especially fish that you just caught from a lake!), it might be worthwhile to cut open the belly and check for hooks swallowed into the stomach as well as hooks in the throat or mouth. If the fish has any sharp spines (like catfish or the dorsal fin on bass), you should cut them off before feeding the fish to the dog. Avoid feeding too much carp, smelt, herring, and catfish, since these fish contain an enzyme that binds Thiamin, or Vitamin B1. They make an excellent addition to any raw diet as long as they aren't the bulk of the diet (i.e. do not feed it every day!).

Wild rodents (squirrels, rats, mice, etc.) and lagomorphs (rabbits) can contain numerous parasites and diseases, including tapeworms and the plague (which affects you, not the dog). If you want to feed your pet wild rodents, freeze the rodents for one month or more before feeding. You can get good quality frozen rats and mice from reptile suppliers and other sources. Frozen rabbits can also be shipped from suppliers (check the internet for suppliers).

Avoid feeding the weight-bearing bones of large herbivores—femurs, knuckle bones, etc. These bones can easily break a dog's teeth. These, among chicken necks and wings, are the most complained about bones.

Also avoid feeding those small bony pieces as a stand-alone. This means wings, chicken backs, chicken carcasses that have all the meat removed, etc. The idea is to feed BIG raw meaty bones that provide a good workout and force the dog to chew thoroughly. And the other key word is "meaty". Think of lots of meat wrapped around some bone. If you feed a bony meal, make sure to add some supplementary meaty-meat to prevent constipation.

Do not overdo the organ meat! Organs are incredibly nutrient rich and are a necessary component of an appropriate raw diet, since these are a vital source of vitamins and minerals for your pets. Too much organ meat can lead to loose stools and a bout with diarrhea (which clears up quickly when the next meal comes through)."

Thank you. I understood that quite a bit, but still wouldn't know the exact portion to feed him :/

Exactly how much you'd feed him would depend on his weight/expected adult weight.

Could you help me figure that out?

I can't because I'm useless with it but you'd have to wait until you actually have a dog first, I'd assume. Then you'd be able to figure it out, it's 2-3% of their expected adult weight.