wish he'd stop pulling

kenny pulls like hell and it's getting harder. i find our walks a struggle. I tryed stopping and hoping he get the message, i've also tryed turning and walking quickly in the other direction. any suggestions

The turning & walking in the other direction is your best bet, but it can take some time - you just have to keep at it. Try taking some treats or a squeeky toy with you to keep his attention on you.

Don't forget that you have to use a 'trigger' word when you turn & walk the other way - something like 'heel' or 'close'. Eventually when you say your trigger word he'll assume you're going to turn & he'll drop back to avoid being pulled.

thanks caryll

Agree turning and walikng the other way is the best option. It takes alot of patience but they do get it after awhile

Just keep plugging away at it, and it will click! As long as you're consistant & do the same thing every time he pulls.

I find with Blue the main thing for me is getting him calm before I go out. If I manage that and put the lead on him when he is calm and don't let him walk in front of me on the way out, he is brillant.
If I'm in a rush and trying to get out the door fast cs im running late he ends up a knightmare. I do the change direction things then realise I have been walking the same 2 metres for the last 30 mins

we sometimes use a head halti, which helps to stop pulling

BlueStaffBlue wrote:I find with Blue the main thing for me is getting him calm before I go out. If I manage that and put the lead on him when he is calm and don't let him walk in front of me on the way out, he is brillant.
If I'm in a rush and trying to get out the door fast cs im running late he ends up a knightmare. I do the change direction things then realise I have been walking the same 2 metres for the last 30 mins

Ditto
Also
Head halti to teach to heal, more control for you with no pulling, and easier for him to understand what you want when you have full control of his head. (read instructions) and training tips with the head halti.
P.S he will still be able to eat/drink/play/pante/ bite/eat grass/eat sticks/eat everything else lol.

i have also found that putting the collar high up on the neck stops the pulling too. we still hgave the odd bit but as you say we just either stop or walk in the other direction. they get the message eventualy that they will get no where fast if they continue to pull it all just takes time

BlueStaffBlue wrote: I do the change direction things then realise I have been walking the same 2 metres for the last 30 mins

Caryll wrote:

BlueStaffBlue wrote: I do the change direction things then realise I have been walking the same 2 metres for the last 30 mins

we get that feeling alot

I found the stop start method better. I just ended up getting mad with the change of direction method cos I don't think Blue had even realised I was changing direction to stop him. I think he was just glad he was out walking.

When I was trying to teach Blue I also found driving to an open field and playing fetch etc for 30mins first then trying to walk at the heel better, as at the start they just have too much energy.

A Halti worked for me and Tyson. I also found that using a backpack can calm them down alot. I also make sure he is calm before even starting the walk. Hang in there the hard work does pay off.

The turning and walking I believe works, I was doing it with Troy until I put him on a harness, but it is harder with the harness as it clips at the rear so you can't turn his head.

Now I stop with the word 'heal' and pull him to my side. If he keep's trying to pull, I stop completely and pull him to my side and show him if he pulls we simply won't be going anywhere.

Seems to be working, but I guess these things take time. He walks by my side nicely sometimes but yesterday he was a complete nightmare.

Gee wrote:The turning and walking I believe works, I was doing it with Troy until I put him on a harness, but it is harder with the harness as it clips at the rear so you can't turn his head.

That's why I don't use a harness!

Spent £25 on it now though

Ok first of all harness really are the worse things for dogs that pull, you have absolutly no control of a dog pulling on a harness, once you have a dog that walks to heal the harness is fine. So pack that away till later and buy yourself a half check collar. These are half material and half choke chain and can be adjusted to fit your dogs neck size, you also need a long training lead about 1 1/2 - 2 metres long (not a retractable one)
Adjust the collar so that when its at the top of your dogs neck the material just touches when its pulled together.
This is best done in a park or open space but start to walk with your dog looping the lead so that its length is short and the dog is at your side, as you walk let the lead out keeping hold on the handle end with one hand and holding it with the other hand as you let it pass through that hand. Your dog will sense that the lead has gone loose and naturally start to pull forward however just before he gets so far that the lead it tight pull the lead back sharply saying heel as you do it and walk in the opposite direction. Pull the lead straight back in a sideways motion lower than your hip not in an upward motion. You do need to do this very sharply and firmly but trust me if you do this a few times the shock of the jerk backwards will focus his attention on you and he will be walking at your side in no time. You will not hurt your dog as long as you adjust the collar properly and it is not too tight. I was taught this technique by a very well respected dog training and my once pulling nightmare of a dog is now an absolute angel on the lead. Good luck.

Can't this method also be used without the use of a choke chain?

Gee wrote:Can't this method also be used without the use of a choke chain?

I don't think a normal collar would have the same effect as the sound has a lot to do with it, but if your not comfortable using it then try it with a normal collar. Alfie wears that sort of collar all the time with no ill effects.

Is this method only use for when pulling generally on walks...what about when he is pulling towards people, animals and objects?

thanks for your replys
i'll certainly try this

Wrighty42 wrote:Ok first of all harness really are the worse things for dogs that pull, you have absolutly no control of a dog pulling on a harness, once you have a dog that walks to heal the harness is fine. So pack that away till later and buy yourself a half check collar. These are half material and half choke chain and can be adjusted to fit your dogs neck size, you also need a long training lead about 1 1/2 - 2 metres long (not a retractable one)
Adjust the collar so that when its at the top of your dogs neck the material just touches when its pulled together.
This is best done in a park or open space but start to walk with your dog looping the lead so that its length is short and the dog is at your side, as you walk let the lead out keeping hold on the handle end with one hand and holding it with the other hand as you let it pass through that hand. Your dog will sense that the lead has gone loose and naturally start to pull forward however just before he gets so far that the lead it tight pull the lead back sharply saying heel as you do it and walk in the opposite direction. Pull the lead straight back in a sideways motion lower than your hip not in an upward motion. You do need to do this very sharply and firmly but trust me if you do this a few times the shock of the jerk backwards will focus his attention on you and he will be walking at your side in no time. You will not hurt your dog as long as you adjust the collar properly and it is not too tight. I was taught this technique by a very well respected dog training and my once pulling nightmare of a dog is now an absolute angel on the lead. Good luck.

Gee wrote:Can't this method also be used without the use of a choke chain?

Yes, it certainly can! You don't need a check or half check for the 'stop & turn the other way' method.

Wrighty42 wrote:

Gee wrote:Can't this method also be used without the use of a choke chain?

I don't think a normal collar would have the same effect as the sound has a lot to do with it, but if your not comfortable using it then try it with a normal collar. Alfie wears that sort of collar all the time with no ill effects.

It has nothing at all to do with the sound (I don't know how many times I've heard this said abou check & half check collars), but all to do with the timing & the sudden tightening & release of the collar.

Gee wrote:Is this method only use for when pulling generally on walks...what about when he is pulling towards people, animals and objects?

The stop-and-turn-the-other-way can be used for any lead work. But distraction (ie the 'watch' command etc) is usually more effective when a dog is pulling towards a particular object.

Thanks for your input

I've recently got my staffy this harness & i couldn't be happier http://www.dog-harness-solutions.com/

Prior to this I had tried most things, check chain, halties, various training techiques...you name it I tried it The moment I put this harness on him, he was a changed dog. Instantly started walking by my side in a calm manner. My partner & i were shocked at how calm & relaxed he became. All other halters etc he had always resisted with force. It works on the same idea as a check chain with the pull release but being around the chest it's much kinder. Only thing I had trouble with was the harness as it was originally rubbed under his legs. But I've since covered it all in soft padding and it works perfectly.

Sophie keeps on pulling on the lead but with the cold weather we put her coat on and to our suprise she walked beautifully, no pulling.
Unfortunately now its not so cold she's not wearing her coat and has started to pull again.

Caryll wrote:

Wrighty42 wrote:Ok first of all harness really are the worse things for dogs that pull, you have absolutly no control of a dog pulling on a harness, once you have a dog that walks to heal the harness is fine. So pack that away till later and buy yourself a half check collar. These are half material and half choke chain and can be adjusted to fit your dogs neck size, you also need a long training lead about 1 1/2 - 2 metres long (not a retractable one)
Adjust the collar so that when its at the top of your dogs neck the material just touches when its pulled together.
This is best done in a park or open space but start to walk with your dog looping the lead so that its length is short and the dog is at your side, as you walk let the lead out keeping hold on the handle end with one hand and holding it with the other hand as you let it pass through that hand. Your dog will sense that the lead has gone loose and naturally start to pull forward however just before he gets so far that the lead it tight pull the lead back sharply saying heel as you do it and walk in the opposite direction. Pull the lead straight back in a sideways motion lower than your hip not in an upward motion. You do need to do this very sharply and firmly but trust me if you do this a few times the shock of the jerk backwards will focus his attention on you and he will be walking at your side in no time. You will not hurt your dog as long as you adjust the collar properly and it is not too tight. I was taught this technique by a very well respected dog training and my once pulling nightmare of a dog is now an absolute angel on the lead. Good luck.

Gee wrote:Can't this method also be used without the use of a choke chain?

Yes, it certainly can! You don't need a check or half check for the 'stop & turn the other way' method.

Wrighty42 wrote:

Gee wrote:Can't this method also be used without the use of a choke chain?

I don't think a normal collar would have the same effect as the sound has a lot to do with it, but if your not comfortable using it then try it with a normal collar. Alfie wears that sort of collar all the time with no ill effects.

It has nothing at all to do with the sound (I don't know how many times I've heard this said abou check & half check collars), but all to do with the timing & the sudden tightening & release of the collar.

Gee wrote:Is this method only use for when pulling generally on walks...what about when he is pulling towards people, animals and objects?

The stop-and-turn-the-other-way can be used for any lead work. But distraction (ie the 'watch' command etc) is usually more effective when a dog is pulling towards a particular object.

Seems we all have differrent ideas and experiences, i'm just sharing what worked for me. Good luck hope you all have non pulling dogs soon x

Yeah of course, seems to be lots of different idea's. We'll see how we get on

Think everyone has different methods just finding the one for you that works.

For us the not going out the front door till calm is a must and they follow us out. On walks we use slip leads at the top of the neck if they go to get infront we give them a correction too the side not pulling back. This is what worked for us tara who use too be an utter stem train now walks beside me.

I change the speed and direction i walk at so they never know where they are going i find that when i jog then slow walk etc they look up at me
They do still pull at times but i used to use the halti for my gsds and found it a godsend especially with 2 very big dogs lol