Which way is right or worked for you (aggression)
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Which way is right or worked for you (aggression)
I have just read another post on dog aggression and its of particular interest to me because Harry will still growl and lunge at some dogs and I haven't been at all successful in getting him to 'look at me' to try and stop him getting in the mood if thats the right word to describe it. He will stare and show intense interest in a dog and walk as though he has wooden legs and then bark, growl and lunge. He will do this even when a dog is quite a long way off. I have tried feeding him with bits like he was a slot machine to distract him but he is not easily distracted whatever the reward.
Anyway, my question is I have been told by a trainer not to tell him off or shorten his lead as I approach as this is sending him the wrong message and would probably encourage his behaviour as he will sense my concern. But some of you with experience have advised someone else with the same problem to do this. Has this worked for you? I'm asking because what the trainer advised isn't working. In every other way he is the perfect dog very well behaved and trained and a very loving companion.
I love my dog more than life and would really be one very happy lady if I could get to the stage where he wouldn't start aggression for no reason as this affects what we can do together. I can put up with him telling another dog where to go and how to get there if they come into his space, although I usually warn an owner with a dog off lead who is approaching us, and I appreciate that he may just not want other dogs for company.
I would really welcome your comments/advice please if you have been in this position and managed to control it.
Anyway, my question is I have been told by a trainer not to tell him off or shorten his lead as I approach as this is sending him the wrong message and would probably encourage his behaviour as he will sense my concern. But some of you with experience have advised someone else with the same problem to do this. Has this worked for you? I'm asking because what the trainer advised isn't working. In every other way he is the perfect dog very well behaved and trained and a very loving companion.
I love my dog more than life and would really be one very happy lady if I could get to the stage where he wouldn't start aggression for no reason as this affects what we can do together. I can put up with him telling another dog where to go and how to get there if they come into his space, although I usually warn an owner with a dog off lead who is approaching us, and I appreciate that he may just not want other dogs for company.
I would really welcome your comments/advice please if you have been in this position and managed to control it.
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Re: Which way is right or worked for you (aggression)
when we are out for a walk i used to get Lemmy to sit when ever there was a jogger or children going by and every other walking person i just kept his lead shorter cos he has a tendancy to jump at people thinking they all want to say hello to him. now with Lottie i will be continuing this because she is nervous of new people but looks to see what lemmy is doing so if i can get him to be a good boy then lottie may start to mimic his behaviour. i do everything while we are out on a walk with a treat sometimes just to make sure he knows theres a reward for being good but now with lottie it is treats all the time again to show her be good and you get a treat
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Re: Which way is right or worked for you (aggression)
They are an aggressive breed by nautre and some will just not get along with other dogs. It sounds as if yours is only having issues with a few dogs so not a huge worry.
It's always best to socialize them as soon and as often as possible before they devolp any bad habits. I don't think there is a way to ensure they will get along with all dogs. The reason people will advise to shorten the lead is so that they will hav emore control of their dog and ensure there isn't an issue not really as a training method.
It's always best to socialize them as soon and as often as possible before they devolp any bad habits. I don't think there is a way to ensure they will get along with all dogs. The reason people will advise to shorten the lead is so that they will hav emore control of their dog and ensure there isn't an issue not really as a training method.
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Re: Which way is right or worked for you (aggression)
The tips you've mentioned would need to be practised a lot at home before you even attempt outside. The "Watch me" will only work if your dog is food orientated outside.
Another way is as soon as you see another dog, say "leave" & turn your dog away & put him in the sit. Then reward. Wait a few seconds and then turn back the way you were going & repeat. It may work.
Walking a dog on a loose lead when there are aggression issues is a difficult thing to do. You have to be absolutely aware of your dog's body language at all times & stop him from lunging even before he's thought to do it - not easy. Although you'll pass your own apprehension along the lead to your dog, it's often safer to shorten the lead a little. Not to the point of it being tight, but just so that you can 'feel' him. That way he'll know you're there but hopefully won't pick up too much of your apprehension. Hope that makes sense!
Another way is as soon as you see another dog, say "leave" & turn your dog away & put him in the sit. Then reward. Wait a few seconds and then turn back the way you were going & repeat. It may work.
Walking a dog on a loose lead when there are aggression issues is a difficult thing to do. You have to be absolutely aware of your dog's body language at all times & stop him from lunging even before he's thought to do it - not easy. Although you'll pass your own apprehension along the lead to your dog, it's often safer to shorten the lead a little. Not to the point of it being tight, but just so that you can 'feel' him. That way he'll know you're there but hopefully won't pick up too much of your apprehension. Hope that makes sense!
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Re: Which way is right or worked for you (aggression)
we are having issues with our dog, and i will keep him on a short lead, bacause i feel more relaxed and in control and will not pass my anxiety over to billy, if i had him on a long lead i would be all over the place and so would he. But it is only my opion
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Re: Which way is right or worked for you (aggression)
Caryll wrote:The tips you've mentioned would need to be practised a lot at home before you even attempt outside. The "Watch me" will only work if your dog is food orientated outside.
Another way is as soon as you see another dog, say "leave" & turn your dog away & put him in the sit. Then reward. Wait a few seconds and then turn back the way you were going & repeat. It may work.
Walking a dog on a loose lead when there are aggression issues is a difficult thing to do. You have to be absolutely aware of your dog's body language at all times & stop him from lunging even before he's thought to do it - not easy. Although you'll pass your own apprehension along the lead to your dog, it's often safer to shorten the lead a little. Not to the point of it being tight, but just so that you can 'feel' him. That way he'll know you're there but hopefully won't pick up too much of your apprehension. Hope that makes sense!
Well said. I totally agree. A tight leash tends to heighten the aggression/excitement and it is best to distract before it gets to this point by whatever means.
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Re: Which way is right or worked for you (aggression)
Ledger started obedience training three weeks ago (oldest by far in the group at over 2) and 'watch' is starting to work and was perfect on a couple of occasions last week there is still a long way to go and there are three dogs we meet atleast once a week that he is almost instantly on edge with these are all big male dogs with male owners that don't have full control of them so I wonder if some of it is protection of me. Generally though I do find that if I keep a loose lead he is more relaxed certainly by shortening it to ensure control it makes him think the other dog could be a threat but he is also improving on walking to heel on command (waving of treat) it does mean being laden down with pockets of treats but it is working
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Re: Which way is right or worked for you (aggression)
Thanks for the replies.
Gem I so agree with you, Harry is a real foodie but when he's decided to have a go at another dog there is no food on earth that would distract him. To anticipate his reaction to another dog and feed him treets isn't always possible. In my own village I know which dogs he doesn't like and there is no rhyme or reason to his dislike that I can see. He will completely ignore some, will even let one male JRT hump him when I'm talking to his owner but others he will start on even the length of the lane away.
The first dog he ever did it to was a very laid back, well behaved beautifully trained Black Lab who never put a foot wrong, yet Harry grew up with my friends black Lab!
I always keep him well under control but think I'm going to have to try a different approach to be able to get him to walk nicely past other dogs (at the moment I drag him, while still trying to act cool and telling him to 'walk on' whilst he continues kicking off).
Gem I so agree with you, Harry is a real foodie but when he's decided to have a go at another dog there is no food on earth that would distract him. To anticipate his reaction to another dog and feed him treets isn't always possible. In my own village I know which dogs he doesn't like and there is no rhyme or reason to his dislike that I can see. He will completely ignore some, will even let one male JRT hump him when I'm talking to his owner but others he will start on even the length of the lane away.
The first dog he ever did it to was a very laid back, well behaved beautifully trained Black Lab who never put a foot wrong, yet Harry grew up with my friends black Lab!
I always keep him well under control but think I'm going to have to try a different approach to be able to get him to walk nicely past other dogs (at the moment I drag him, while still trying to act cool and telling him to 'walk on' whilst he continues kicking off).
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Re: Which way is right or worked for you (aggression)
gem wrote:they are dog trainers I dont think they recognise the tenacity of a sbt.
This works for me to have a aggressive dog with a loose lead in the near vicinity of another you are asking for trouble its irrelivent in my book what message you are sending down the lead you have a duty to not only protect your dog but others also.
A aggresive dog needs a firm approach when you have control that it understands then the battle is over you have to find one that suits you one that hes listening to and when they are that aggitated then food doesnt enter there mind.
when im walking with mine you would never know that one is aggressive cause when another dog is approaching I shorten the lead give him a command and he walks nicely past it makes walking him so much easier and more enjoyable for us all
By the way I love you explaining the walking with wooden legs that made me giggle love it
That's the thing. A dog aggressive staff will ignore treats/toys etc. A loose lead will just give him room to lunge harder. If I took Dempsey past other dogs that he doesn't like on a loose lead, we'd have several bitten dogs! Same with my old boy, Bandit (he was even worse than Dempsey). However, I anticipated his reactions & would say "leave it!", really firmly, as we walked past and although he'd look hard at the other dog & even sometimes growl, he wouldn't lunge at it unless the other dog showed signs of aggression as well - then there was nothing I could do except turn him away!
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