keep our staffies safe in the heat

Don't expose them to heat for long periods of time
Have drinking water in a bowl or bottle
On walks keep your dog in shaded areas
If you have a white staffordshire bull terrier use suncream on them
At home if you keep your dog in a certain area exposed to sun keep your curtains closed and your window slightly ajar to prevent insects from entering the room and also for ventilation.
ways to treat a sting from a Bee sting – Bicarbonate of soda wasp sting vinegar
Ways to remove a bee sting is with a credit card.
Of course take advice from a vet if an allergy occours.

Good tips Crystal

Didnt know about the bee and wasp stings....thanks!

was mainly for new staffy owners kita but you're welcome hen

Its a big thing in the bikejor scene right now with temps changing so rapidley and dogs not getting time to acclimatise. I carry piritain with me from now until oct as marley is reactive to bee stings but can chew wasps all day long... 
One thing I do before runningthe dogs at this time of year is water baiting. put something smelly and nice into a bowl of water which will encourage them to drink lots about an hour before going out. keeping them well hydrated before a run works wonders.
This was also posted in one of the groups and may be of intrest to you guys.

Notes from Heat Injury Seminar presented by Janice Baker (Taken from Chris Puls Status)

26 June 2014 at 12:01
Very interesting info in the Heat Injury seminar presented online by Janice Baker DVM (works with military working dogs). It was talking mostly about working dogs (fit, athletic dogs such as those used by the military, police, search/rescue, etc.). But I find the info highly applicable to many sport dogs as well.
-- Heat Injury is #1 cause of death in non-combat Military working dogs and #2 non-hostile line of duty cause of death for police dogs (traumatic injury is #1)
-- Radiation of body heat to cooler air or cooler surface is much more effective than panting, so getting the dog to a cooler location or a cool surface or to a water source they can get into is best.
-- The higher the air temp, the less it takes for the dog to over heat because they can't radiate the heat.
-- The dog's temperature is not a reliable indicator of risk for heat injury. Fit, athletic dogs can be fine with short periods of very high internal temperatures and a "normal" WORKING temp for such a dog might be as high as 104 to 107 degrees. They found that some working dogs temps went up to that level simply by taking them out of the kennel and putting on their gear (due to their muscles quivering with excitement). Long periods of time at really high temps are still dangerous even if the dog is fit and conditioned or the air is hot, making cooling difficult.
RISKS FOR HEAT INJURY:
**Rapid change in air temp (spring time where one day is 70 degrees and next day is 90 degrees for example, travel to warmer climates, long periods of A/C to high outdoor temps, etc.)
**Long periods off work (dog loses conditioning/acclimation)
**Over weight or gain of weight
**Muzzle work (even basket muzzles restrict the dog's ability to pant effectively) and muzzles that prevent the dog from opening it's mouth can be dangerous if the dog is warm/hot. If dog is injured, assess whether it's more important for the dog to get oxygen/cool off vs. bite risk to care givers.
** Handler over estimates dog's fitness/condition level
** Medical/Structural issues (airway obstruction, short face/nose, thyroid issues, etc.)
WARNING SIGNS BEFORE HEAT INJURY:
** Shade seeking behavior (dog wants to be in the human's shadow or other shade)
** Calming down (in a normally active/hyper dog)
** Wanting to sit or lie down (refusing to go on or disregarding known cues in order to just sit or lie down, is getting to serious levels)
** Delaying return to handler (on recall or during fetch, dog doesn't return directly to the handler or returns more slowly than previous in order to increase time spent moving more slowly)
** Dropping reward objects (dog lies down and spits out the toy- to increase effectiveness of panting) (Remember, she's used to Malinois that hold the toy like it's life or death)  
** Panting "smile" (lips pulled back to expose more of the gums, increase surface area of the mouth)
PREVENTION:** Know the risks above and avoid them whenever possible** Know the warning signs above** Increase conditioning/acclimation time and slowly increase exercise/activity demands in high risk situations** Keep dog fit and healthy (lean/skinny side of an ideal weight is better for highly athletic dogs)** Remove muzzle whenever possible** Cool dog down DURING work, don't wait for dog to over heat first** Allow frequent access to water (risk of heat injury is much greater than unproven risk of bloat)** Monitor and know your dog's normal working temp** Look for potential cooling sources in your area (streams, water toughs, A/C in vehicles/buildings, fans, wind sources/wind tunnel effects, etc.) so you know where to go if your dog starts showing signs.
-- Dogs don't drink because they like to drink, they drink because they NEED it. So let a dog drink until he chooses to stop (unless it's a compulsive/resource guarding issue). Might need short breaks from drinking to prevent vomiting, but keep returning to the water until dog doesn't want it.
-- The effectiveness of cooling coats and mats is lacking. Studies show that dogs get just as hot (core temp) while working and wearing a cooling vest as they do with body armor or nothing at all. BUT, as a method for cooling the dog AFTER exercise/during resting, it works well (if dog will lie down on the mat).
-- Dogs don't need electrolytes because they don't sweat and their loss during exercise is minimal
-- A balanced diet and lean body is most effective at preventing heat injury. Special diets and supplements have little effects on prevention.
-- Sub Q fluids have no effect on enhancing the dog's performance or preventing heat injury, except to prevent dehydration if the dog will be working for an extended time without water (as may happen on some military missions).
TREATMENT:
** Cool the dog as fast as possible to approximately 103 degrees. The longer the dog is dangerously hot, the greater the damage.
** Use any reasonable cooling method available. Ice packs, ice water and ice water soaked towels are the best methods (contrary to internet rumors and popular opinion) and has no side effects (whereas a dog remaining hot CAN cause significant damage/death). You want the dog wet and you want to increase cool air flow over the dog if possible to use evaporation cooling. Cool the dog first, then transport unless you can cool during transport to the vet.
** Always transport to the vet for blood work because effects can last several days due to damage to the body's cells and the GI tract that can let bacteria into the blood stream. The dog's temp may be unstable for several days and should be closely monitored.
DOES HEAT INJURY INCREASE FUTURE RISK?Bottom line is that it's not known. The risk factors are often still present (over weight, under condition, short face, need for muzzle, etc.). It's unknown if there could be damage to the brain or the thermoregulation system of the dog. Unknown if medications are a factor. So it's recommended that the risks be assessed on a case by case basis using known and suspected risk factors as the basis.

I have a spray bottle from superdrug that I was using to spritz gizmo's belly to try and keep him a bit cooler. don't think it works too well. What's the best kind of bottle of water to carry, or should I be bringing a little bowl with me on walks?

Theres a travel water bottle with a tray u can buy from pets at home