fighting between themselves

my dogs have started fighting between themselves and its really starting to annoy me now it start a couple of days ago say they see a cat or another dog thats barking they get into that state of high arousal and them one of them turns on the other and there strong dogs so its hard to break up and people keep seeing this happen and its really embarrassing its not even that they bite each other because they don't they just dive on each other and growl with there mouths open but its not the point is it and ive actually come to realise there not behaved what so ever they   hardly ever listen when shouted to come back or anything when there in this high state of excitement theres  literally no getting through to them mostly its ivy when shes excited but its becoming a problem now obviously its our fault weve been too soft with them but think its going to have to be a dog trainer and behaviorist for them 

you need to see the sign and stop it before it starts..

Does this happen while out on walks ? Are you able to walk them separately ?

Like Steve said above you need to learn the signs and stop it before it starts.

Also, if recall is not 100% perfect do not let them off the lead unless you can be sure there's nobody about but even then keep a close eye on them and watch for signs its going to kick off. Keep them on long training leads for now until you have complete control

Other than that, a good dog trainer is what you need

Yes I agree, watch for the signs. If you still unsure of the signs, just keeping watching their body lau, and go from there.

Also, I would just add there's no need to waste your money on a dog behaviourist there's nothing wrong with them as far as I know from reading your post they are just very excitable and egg each other on. Some hard work and patience on your part and lots of visits to dog training classes will give you back control.

Sounds easy saying watch for the signs but when in a split second they see a cat and i have two leads my hand it happens to fast to stop

is that or walk them a part

Perhaps walk them on shorter leads and with a harness for more control, for the time being.

When they see a cat, can you steer them past. Or else make them sit and just accept the fact that there is a cat.

Does this only happen outdoors. Dogs hate being ignored more than anything else and if they fight indoors you could immediately put each one in a dark room for two minutes to "think about" their behaviour.

ill just try to avoid the things that make them way to over excited they have harnesses already and 36 inch leads there really short and no this never happens in the house but they have been much better today ive started taking them out the back so they dont see the alleyway where all the cats are thats what makes them go mad really and also i dont no what there attempting to do its not like there going to do anything to the cat as we have one and they dont bother it

also is there any techniques to calm them down quickly ? ivy gets way to over excited sometimes and that where the stupid behavior comes from it would help out alot if i could just snap her out of it

Jazz Up And Settle Down Technique by Ian Dunbar

(I found this v helpful)

Jazz Up and Settle Down
Many owners experience great difficulty and frustration trying to get their adolescent dogs to settle down. Many dogs bark and bounce like crazy when the front doorbell rings. Dogs perform moon loops just because the owner says, “Walkies,” or picks up the dog’s leash. And on walks, some dogs literally explode with activity and uncontrollable enthusiasm at the mere prospect of meeting a person, another dog, a squirrel, or a leaf.
Many owners ignore their dogs when they are calm and well behaved and only attempt to control the dog’s behavior when he is really out of control. Obviously, this is a most challenging way to train. And it isn’t going to work that well. First, owners should practice settling down their dogs in easier scenarios — when the dog is less excited, or even when the dog perfectly calm and relaxed. For example, while your dog is snoozing on his bed, ask him to join you to settle down on the couch. Your dog would be only willing to obey. Then owners should settle down the dog in more distracting settings. For example, when walking your dog, ask him to settle down every 25 yards and by the end of just one walk, you’ll have a very different dog — much more attentive and biddable. Finally though, owners must “confront the beast “and learn how to teach Mr. Hyperdog to settle down quickly and willingly, anytime and anywhere. This is one of the first adolescent exercises that we teach at SIRIUS® Dog Training, because this is precisely what owners have come to learn. In many adult dog training classes, dogs are never allowed to bark and bounce or express their enthusiasm and so, owners can never learn how to settle down their dogs when they are excited. Obviously, we have to allow dogs to bark and bounce in order to practice teaching them to settle down and shush. However, rather than let the dogs be rambunctious at will, we teach the dog’s to be rambunctious on cue.
Interestingly, as soon as we instruct owners to jolly up their dogs and get them to vocalize and jump in the air, most dogs simply stand and stare and observe their owners with some considerable curiosity. This is a classic example of Murphy’s First Law of Dog Training: When trying to teach a particular behavior, usually the opposite happens. With a little encouragement though, most owners quickly learn to teach their dogs to jazz up on cue, whereupon the owners may now, at their convenience, repeatedly practice teaching their dogs to settle down on cue. The jazz-up-and-settle-down sequence is repeated until every owner can get their dog to settle down and shush within three seconds.
Once the owner has taught their dog to perform a “problem” behavior on cue, the behavior is no longer a problem that works against training, instead the activity may now be used as reward to reinforce training. For example, after a lengthy period of settle-and-shush, you may instruct your dog to bounce, circle, bark, rollover, or tug as a reward. After walking calmly on leash, you may instruct your dog to pull as a reward. (Especially useful when going uphill.)
An additional benefit of having activity problems on cue is that you may now instruct your dog to let off steam when the time is convenient. For example, I would always instruct my Malamute to stick his head out of the sunroof and howl whenever we were stuck in commuter traffic on the San Francisco Bay Bridge. In fact, once, during an especially lengthy traffic jam, a BMW driver followed suit and howled back!

Also, this:

https://pawsitivedawgs.wordpress.com/2010/12/26/premackingforcalm/

Sounds easy saying watch for the signs but when in a split second they see a cat and i have two leads my hand it happens to fast to stop

Not really, you can look out for triggers it means you have to keep your wits about you and stay alert I always do it when walking Axl if I see something I know he will react to I turn the other way or avoid it if possible.

You seem to have sussed this out though yourself by avoiding the alley where the cats are

You could always take them to training classes, the perfect environment for excitement and the trainers will teach you how to control it with "watch me" commands etc.

Can't you walk them separately jack !

I have a similar problem. Recently, Faisal has started going for Saxon for no reason! This morning Saxon retaliated and it turned into a full blown brawl.

Muzzle needed for the wee one I think.

Moved post to Staffy Training & Behaviour

ive had no problems with them since i started avoiding the area where cats are so think we'll be alright now

Glad to here that  jack my pups had an ear infection mate took her to the vets today £50 for a small bottle of ear drops but its worth it if they work

mines had an ear infection before and had drops they work well

them ear drops am doing the world a gud for beau back to her normal self?