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Teaching loose lead walking |
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Probably one of the most persistent problems many staffie owners face is pulling on the lead. The question is always ‘how do I get them to stop pulling?’. In a nutshell, there is very little that will stop a dog pulling if he really wants to. Even some of the more drastic collars such a prong collars (not recommended!) will not stop a strong dog if he really wants to pull.
The key is in teaching them that they don’t need to pull in the first place, and that having a loose lead is actually quite nice!
Understanding why dogs pull on the lead is helpful before we start looking at solutions.
• not understanding that there is an alternative to pulling, and that that alternative is actually good and comfortable;
• excitement, wanting to get there now!
• reaction to the tension on the lead
• reaction to the discomfort of being pulled, especially with restricting collars, etc.
You’ll notice that ‘being naughty’ or ‘trying to dominate’ are not on the list. It is easy to get frustrated when you’re being pulled by a strong dog but please remember that he is not doing it deliberately, so don’t get cross.
Tug of war
There is one point on the above list that merits more discussion and that is the reaction to tension on the lead. This has an impact on the dog in two big ways.
First, the psychological impact. We want our dog to be relaxed and to trot along quietly next to us. We want him not to worry about anything he sees and to look to us for leadership if anything untoward does happen. Can your dog do that if the thing that connects you is tense? Your dog takes cues from you the whole time, you have to set the tone with your own body language and stress level (or ideally lack of). A relaxed lead in a relaxed hand will help your dog relax too.
There is also another impact to consider. By pulling on your dog, you are actually giving him very little choice but to pull back. Try it for yourself. Ask someone else to hold the other end of a lead from you, and then to pull. Not yank and cause you rope burn, just pull as if you were the dog and they were a pulling owner. Can you feel how your instinct is to pull back? Pulling a dog, even a little, can in fact make them pull!
Walking equipment
Before we go any further, let’s have a quick look at walking equipment as this can also affect on how your dog walks.
1. leads – short, medium, long or flexi? As we’ve just said, pulling can create pulling, so a short, tight lead can in fact make the problem worse. Furthermore, if your dog really does take off for some reason, a shorter lead will make it harder for you to stop him due to lack of leverage.
Flexi leads (the extending ones) are not a good idea. They give you very limited control, can get tangled quite easily and, as they are very often quite thin, actually pose a danger if they get caught round a dog’s throat. They may have a place for small dogs but for strong staffies they are not advisable.
Long training lines are brilliant for allowing a dog space to move if they need to be on the lead but can cope with the freedom of the extra length of line. They do need you to get used to having coils of line to pay out and draw in but if you can master that they are a great choice.
If you’re not (yet) happy using a training line, we’d suggest go for a medium length one, 6 foot or so is ideal. Choose one that sits comfortably in your hand, has a good secure clip and that is soft and flexible, allowing your dog to move around you comfortably. Avoid harsh nylon or thin cord as these can give you rope burn. Softex type leads are ideal.
2. collar vs harness – to a certain extent this is personal choice. It is not true that a harness will make your dog pull or that a severe collar will make him stop. On the contrary, a collar that causes discomfort because it tightens (choke collars) or is otherwise uncomfortable can cause your dog to pull even more to get away from the discomfort. Even a regular collar can cause discomfort and, in extreme cases, neck damage so a harness can be a safer option.
If you do choose a collar, make sure it is broad and soft. Even a leather collar should have enough give and no hard edges. It is how it feels to the dog that is important, not how cool he looks wearing it.
Harnesses should be well fitted all the way round, snug but not tight. Make sure they do not rub under the arms or anywhere else. It is worth looking at different types of harness, front or side clipping ones and others that exert some pressure on the chest can be effective for pulling dogs, although any dog can learn to pull against any harness.
There are several types of ‘non-pull’ harnesses on the market, some of which appear to offer quick fix solutions. While some dogs may respond immediately, in general these harnesses work well as training aids, rather than as solutions in themselves. Good brands often have DVDs or online videos demonstrating how to use them – it’s worth watching and learning. Two tried and tested non-pull harnesses are the Mekuti and the Ancol/Pure Dog Listener, both of which should be used as training harnesses.
Headcollar type equipment, such as the Halti, can be effective for some dogs. They are not without their problems, though. There are some concerns about neck damage with sudden or strong pulls and many dogs dislike the feel of them, especially if they twist in front of the eye. If used, they are best seen as a part of the solution not a quick fix.
Training
Ultimately, the only real way to stop a dog pulling on the lead is to invest time, and sometimes quite a lot of it, in training. Especially if your dog has been pulling like a train for years, it can take a while to break the habit but it can be done. The hard work really does pay off in the end!
There are several methods that have been proved to be effective. They have the same underlying theory – avoiding the sustained pull, encouraging the dog to want to be with you and rewarding the behaviour you want. Choose one that relies on reward and setting the dog up to work with you, not one that involves pressure or punishment. If you look at training videos online (and there are many!), look how willing and happy the dog is, not what the trainer says he is. If you try someone’s method and find that your dog is unhappy, change. We want your dog to walk next to you because it’s a great place to be, not because he feels he has to or else.
We have picked out two for you to look at. The first is with Victoria Stilwell, there are two videos, starting with indoor training and then moving to working outside
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeTBGMYZj5I&list=PL0C724F6F6A597540&index=2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJ-qvYh7TVU&list=PL0C724F6F6A597540&index=3
The second uses the clicker to mark ‘yes’ when the dog does the right thing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=897ScoxV6MI
There are some more great ideas here:
http://grishastewart.com/leash-walking/
These methods work for puppies and older dogs although of course dogs who have developed a habit of pulling will be more difficult to retrain than a puppy who is starting from scratch.
You will still need to walk your dog during training but to make your training most effective it’s best to keep to really easy walks, so where he will pull least, and at times when there are fewest interesting things around to pull towards. The more he practises pulling, the more he will continue to do so.
Follow the general rules of training for this as for any other training – short sessions to start off with, reward every little try, keep positive! Check our ‘General Training Basics’ FAQ https://staffy-bull-terrier.niceboard.com/t65553-general-training-basics.
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A Staffy-bull-terrier Frequently Asked Questions |
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