Need some help.. training going backwards
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Need some help.. training going backwards
There are a few issues I am having with Harley's behavior that has to stop and I need some advice please as I am getting to the end of my patients with him and some days he has me either shouting at him out of frustration or upset because his behavior is getting worse. These are my main issues with him:
1. After his dinner he is more wound up and comes in and dives on the sofa, he will sniff /lick my ears and when we try and push him of he bites our wrists and doesn't listen to enough. He rushes about and thinks were playing. I then pick him up and put him in the hall for time out. when I put him down he will bite me again and pull clothing. some times time outs work for him to calm down but nothing I do stops biting. They are not hard to him but to me they hurt as he is adult and they are leaving marks on my skin.
2. He jumps up and wraps his legs around your leg, sometimes he tries to hump and if I push him off again he just bites legs arms anything he can I tell him to sit then give paw then generally he calms but this only works some of the time. I use a can with coins in when he jumps up and nips but he is getting used to the noise and this is not working.
3. when were out walking we use a harness for the morning as he goes to the field with his ball to have a run about and we keep a long line trailing just in case he decides to be naughty( generally hes pretty good when his ball is in play) my problem is any roads we cross he has started to lunge into traffic and hes making me nervous now. He also pulls like mad across roads. I walked him on a figure of 8 easy leader for a few weeks and he was excellent didn't pull at all but didn't looked to thrilled when he had it on though and I felt like I was ruining his walks as he looked so sad so I haven't used it since. Also it was a faf taking it on and off on walks. So my question is should I start to use it again just for lead walks? Do I still teach the heel command while on the leader? and If i feel him pulling in it do I just use the stop like a statue technique like I normally do?
He has always been quite nippy from a pup we used the coins in a can method and he didn't nip at all now he is starting old habits and is nipping hard again. One positive is though he is fantastic in every other department such as never chewed anything very social with other dogs, doesn't mind being left etc.. just got to fix these little problems. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
1. After his dinner he is more wound up and comes in and dives on the sofa, he will sniff /lick my ears and when we try and push him of he bites our wrists and doesn't listen to enough. He rushes about and thinks were playing. I then pick him up and put him in the hall for time out. when I put him down he will bite me again and pull clothing. some times time outs work for him to calm down but nothing I do stops biting. They are not hard to him but to me they hurt as he is adult and they are leaving marks on my skin.
2. He jumps up and wraps his legs around your leg, sometimes he tries to hump and if I push him off again he just bites legs arms anything he can I tell him to sit then give paw then generally he calms but this only works some of the time. I use a can with coins in when he jumps up and nips but he is getting used to the noise and this is not working.
3. when were out walking we use a harness for the morning as he goes to the field with his ball to have a run about and we keep a long line trailing just in case he decides to be naughty( generally hes pretty good when his ball is in play) my problem is any roads we cross he has started to lunge into traffic and hes making me nervous now. He also pulls like mad across roads. I walked him on a figure of 8 easy leader for a few weeks and he was excellent didn't pull at all but didn't looked to thrilled when he had it on though and I felt like I was ruining his walks as he looked so sad so I haven't used it since. Also it was a faf taking it on and off on walks. So my question is should I start to use it again just for lead walks? Do I still teach the heel command while on the leader? and If i feel him pulling in it do I just use the stop like a statue technique like I normally do?
He has always been quite nippy from a pup we used the coins in a can method and he didn't nip at all now he is starting old habits and is nipping hard again. One positive is though he is fantastic in every other department such as never chewed anything very social with other dogs, doesn't mind being left etc.. just got to fix these little problems. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
b_phippsy- Staffy-Bull-Terrier VIP Member
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Re: Need some help.. training going backwards
Frustrating Beth !!
Points one and two. After feeding he's full of energy and and wants to play, he's young after all, so can you let him out in the garden for a mad ten mins ? As for the nipping leg grabbing, a firm no and push him down. Stand still and ignore him, no eye contact, no nothing until all 4 Paws are on the floor. As you know, Staffs crave human interaction so anything that doesn't give this will eventually be seen as a negative.
As for point 3, I think you've already answered that one yourself. Yup put him back on the other lead and yes practice the "To Heel". I would like to think this is just a phase and he will calm down.
I'm by no means an expert and hopefully Liz and/or Rachel can offer some more practical advice.
Points one and two. After feeding he's full of energy and and wants to play, he's young after all, so can you let him out in the garden for a mad ten mins ? As for the nipping leg grabbing, a firm no and push him down. Stand still and ignore him, no eye contact, no nothing until all 4 Paws are on the floor. As you know, Staffs crave human interaction so anything that doesn't give this will eventually be seen as a negative.
As for point 3, I think you've already answered that one yourself. Yup put him back on the other lead and yes practice the "To Heel". I would like to think this is just a phase and he will calm down.
I'm by no means an expert and hopefully Liz and/or Rachel can offer some more practical advice.
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Re: Need some help.. training going backwards
Thank you Ian yes I will keep trying this its just very frustrating at the moment because nothings working :/ With the 3rd point I thought so but I was scared it was going to make him hate his walks and become less tolerant of dogs I dont know why but I will try using it again.
b_phippsy- Staffy-Bull-Terrier VIP Member
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Re: Need some help.. training going backwards
I think you need to use what works for now Beth, at least until he calms down. You'll get there (again) it's just going to take some patience and Some tough love
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Re: Need some help.. training going backwards
Thank you Ian
b_phippsy- Staffy-Bull-Terrier VIP Member
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Re: Need some help.. training going backwards
Hello beth after his dinner take him straight out after for a walk persevere with the leader as opposed to a harness as the harness gives them more power to pull, even with some non pull harnesses, you know your boy better than anybody before he attempts to attach himself to your stand very still and a loud firm no without shouting and keeping your voice even . its important as you know to keep hands and legs out of the way. Make sure everybody in the house gives the same commands exactly the same way otherwise he will get mixed messages . Keep up the training each day amd he will come good hes probably at the teenage phase as well so consistency is very important as are boudaries.
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Re: Need some help.. training going backwards
Thank you Crystal I think your right by saying the no before he latches on as he will some times listen but if he has already started jumping and nipping he wont listen. so I will give this ago too.
b_phippsy- Staffy-Bull-Terrier VIP Member
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Re: Need some help.. training going backwards
The crucial point beth is getting your tone of voice right so he listens without shouting.
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Re: Need some help.. training going backwards
What food's he on, Beth? A high sugar content could cause behaviour like this.
If it purely behaviour though, I think I'd be inclined to pop him on the lead while he's eating, then take him for a quick 10 minute walk and leave him on the lead when you get back in the house so you can contain his movements. Then do a little training work, asking him to sit and lie down, so that you are mentally stimulating and tiring him at the same time as explaining to him what you want of him.
If he feels about to explode, then play with him but on your terms. Keep a lead on and play tuggy games or something, but with plenty of 'leave its' and waiting in between.
Any equipment you use for walking should only ever be a backup to training. It sounds like you need to go back to basics a bit, plenty of 'watch me', lots of changing of direction and calling Harley to you, lots of rewards for working with you. I dislike any head-based leading equipment, partly because as you say it's uncomfortable for the dogs and partly because of the damage they can do to necks. If you have a dangerous situation of Harley lunging at cars, then use it but only while you do the training. Do be aware that sharp pulls on the neck can cause damage that you will only discover years down the line though.
If it purely behaviour though, I think I'd be inclined to pop him on the lead while he's eating, then take him for a quick 10 minute walk and leave him on the lead when you get back in the house so you can contain his movements. Then do a little training work, asking him to sit and lie down, so that you are mentally stimulating and tiring him at the same time as explaining to him what you want of him.
If he feels about to explode, then play with him but on your terms. Keep a lead on and play tuggy games or something, but with plenty of 'leave its' and waiting in between.
Any equipment you use for walking should only ever be a backup to training. It sounds like you need to go back to basics a bit, plenty of 'watch me', lots of changing of direction and calling Harley to you, lots of rewards for working with you. I dislike any head-based leading equipment, partly because as you say it's uncomfortable for the dogs and partly because of the damage they can do to necks. If you have a dangerous situation of Harley lunging at cars, then use it but only while you do the training. Do be aware that sharp pulls on the neck can cause damage that you will only discover years down the line though.
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