Might help?

I was wondering if you guys might want to put the files I got from my trainer on here?
I thought it might help people
1, crate training
2, a guide to understanding dog language
3, commands, good routines and The law

I do have a leadership one but not sure if that will be helpful or not

Anyways just thought I'd ask and see if you might want to put them on here

Thanks for thinking about us! Can you give us the links & we'll have a look through them?

I got them sent through email, I could send it to you or someone else through email?

We're not really supposed to give private email addresses on the forum because of abuse.

Could you copy & paste them onto this thread?

Ah okay
I can do that when I get home then
Only question is how do I go about doing that as their PDF or something like that lol, and there's A LOT of writing in them.

Hmmmm. A bit at a time might be best!

Instalments!

A GUIDE TO UNDERSTANDING DOG LANGUAGE

CALMING SIGNALS – THE DOG DANCE OF PEACE AND HARMONY
Developed to keep peace and harmony within the pack, calming signals may very well make up the largest part of a dogs communication system. These signals are used in most dog/dog interactions to avoid or cut-off conflict. They are often used with people too. When two dogs first see each other they usually begin to use these signals, they continue to use them during the initial meeting and play sessions. It unfolds something like a subtle dance that often goes completely unnoticed by people. Since our dogs do use these signals with us and believe that we understand them, I think it’s only fair that we try to understand them and respond accordingly as communication is a two-way street and our dogs are doing their best understand our verbal and body language. By acknowledging and using these signals we can also develop a deeper bond with our dogs. If you happen to notice that your dog is using these signals with you, you can let your dog know the signal has been received by reducing your intensity, taking a break or changing your approach. I should also point out that there are times when these actions are not being used as calming signals. Sometimes a dog just scratches because he has an itch or yawns because he is tired. To discover the true meaning behind the action try to determine if the action seems in or out of context, i.e. if you are training or playing with your dog and he yawns there’s a good chance he’s not really tired. He is probably asking for a little less intensity.
CALMING SIGNALS USED TO AVOID OR CUT OFF CONFLICT IN THE PRESENCE OF ANOTHER DOG
Sitting, lying down, rolling over on back, freezing while turning the head away from the dog, completely turning back on another dog, sniffing the ground or digging at something, staring at the horizon, the play bow, scratching itself, the nose lick, licking the lips of another dog, lifting one paw and looking away, pretending to be preoccupied with something else, and above all: AVOIDING DIRECT EYE CONTACT OR BLINKING WHILE LOOKING INTO THE EYES OF ANOTHER. When two dogs first meet they normally avoid direct eye contact. A direct, unblinking stare between dogs is considered a challenge. If you taught your dog that it is okay to look directly into your eyes – neither of you takes that look as a challenge. However, if any dog ever goes stiff and gives you a cold hard stare in the eyes (this may or may not be accompanied by a growl), you should immediately avert your eyes and turn your head to the side or slowly turn your back on the dog. Never get in a stare down match with a dog that is threatening you – people have been bit in the face doing just that.
CALMING SIGNALS OFTEN USED WITH PEOPLE
Though any of the signals mentioned above may be used with people, I feel the following are easy to see once you get used to looking for them and definitely worth responding to.


NOSE LICKING, YAWNING, SCRATCHING OR REFUSAL TO LOOK YOUR DIRECTION
These signals are often used to let people know they are petting, playing or training with too much intensity. The dog feels anxious or intimidated – reduce your intensity, take a break or change your approach.
USE CALMING SIGNALS TO RELAX YOUR DOG
If your dog is worried or restless you can YAWN to CALM. Try this at home with your dog if he’s pacing. Do several yawns in row without making direct contact until he calms down.
USE CALMING SIGNALS WHEN GREETING DOGS
When greeting a dog, crouch down or stand with your side turned to the dog, keep your eye contact short or non-existent and wait for the dog to approach you. When the dog approaches, pet on the side closest to you rather than reaching over the dog. Most dogs normally welcome and warm up to people quickly when greeted this way. People often greet dogs in a way that makes them uncomfortable – straight on with lots of eye contact followed by bending over the dog and petting it right on top of the head. Watch how dogs react when you try to greet them this way. They often backup and/or look away – they are uncomfortable being greeted in this manner. If you decide to touch the head of a dog it is much nicer to go for the side of the face or under the chin. Take every opportunity to teach children how to properly introduce themselves to your dog and other dogs.
USE CALMING SIGNALS TO DIFFUSE AN AGGRESSIVE APPROACH BY A DOG
If you ever find yourself in a situation where a dog is coming right at you growling and barking the first thing to do turn your head and avert your eyes, then slowly pivot to your side and put the majority or your weight on the foot furthest from the dog, and do your best breath normally.
PLAY LANGUAGE
Most play sessions begin with the ceremonial PLAY BOW – a dog that bends its front elbows and holds it’s rear-end high in the air is saying, “I want to play and everything you are about to experience is in the name of play.” Dogs use this signal with other dogs and people. I often do a human version of a play bow when trying to loosen up a dog that is a bit timid – it seems to be well understood and often results in play. Try it with your dog the next time you’d like to play a game.
Many dogs also use a PLAY FACE – mouth is wide open and relaxed with the tongue often hanging out to side, and they have a soft, goofy look on their face.
PLAY SNEEZE
Dog shakes head with eyes closed and blows hard through nose. This doesn’t seem to be common language to all dogs but some dog’s sneeze when they want to play or get excited. Try sneezing through your nose (not your mouth) in front of your dog and see what kind of reaction you get. I once had a dog that would go get a toy every time I sneezed this way.
PLAY STYLES
There are many different play styles among dogs. There are dogs who like to nothing better than a good roll-n-tumble with lots of mouthing; dogs who like to make lots of noise when they play; dogs that get a blast out of games like chase or tag and still others who like to do the butt-bump…etc. The important thing to remember is that most dogs prefer to play with dogs that have a play style closely matching their own. Many purebred dogs develop a play style that is common to their breed and play well with other dogs of the same breed. My dog loves to play chase and tag but is very uncomfortable with roll-n-tumble games so I take her out of situations where that kind of play is taking place. If you find yourself in a situation where your dog is playing with another dog and either dog appears overwhelmed, fearful or anxious you should stop the play session. And always remember that any dog backed into a corner or against a wall should be relieved immediately. If a dog is frightened and has no way to flee it may decide it needs to fight its way out of the situation.
MORE DOG LANGUAGE
PAW LIFT – I’m a bit anxious - OR - there’s a thorn in my paw.
HIP/BUTT BUMP - I like and trust you – OR – would you mind scratching the base of my tail?
DOG SMILE – Dog is doing its version of a human smile. This gesture is only used with humans and is considered a sign of pacification. People who aren’t used to seeing a dog smile may think they are being threatened as the lips are pulled up and back exposing the teeth and the nose is often crinkled. If the dog’ body language is fluid and relaxed – it’s probably just a smile.
SIGHS – I’m content now and think I’ll settle here for a bit – OR - I give up.
ROLLING BACK/SHOULDERS ON THE GROUND – Life is great - OR – there’s something really stinky down here and I want to smell just like it!
KISSES - I’m your servant and friend - OR - I am hungry.
MUZZLE NUDGE or SINGLE BARK – Please acknowledge me - OR - I want…
THE FULLY BODY SHAKE – Dogs often do this after being exposed to a situation that made them tense. They are quite literally shaking-off the left over tension. You will probably see this most often just after your dog has finished greeting another dog.
COCKING THE HEAD FROM SIDE-TO-SIDE – Dogs may do this when they hear a strange noise or when you try to tell them a story. It seems to mean something like “That was interesting – please do it again or tell me more…I’m not quite sure I understand the meaning yet.”

Commands, Good Routines and The Law



Obedience Exercise 1 – Name

The first task when training your dog is to teach it his/her name. This may sound silly but it is the most important word a dog needs to know. The first problem that many owners encounter with their dog is that the dog learns to ignore you or its name.

Whenever you call the dogs name you require a response so that you can then tell the dog what you want it to do next, to ensure that you get this you will need to train the dog to do this, do not just expect the dog to learn by repetition and accident.

1. Start with a hungry dog and some treats, then with the dog in the same room as you clearly and positively call the dog’s name, if the dog looks at you then reward it by either tossing the food to the dog or by hand if the dog runs towards you.

2. If the dog does not look at you straight away then call again in a firmer, more positive voice, if the dog now responds you can still reward.

NOTE; as the dog learns what is required you will only need to reward for responding to your first call.

3. Now try the same exercise using a toy and or an enthusiastic verbal and physical praise so that the reward changes and this should improve the responses, remember using the same reward and or the same type of food treat can bore the dog and slow responses.

4. If the dog is responding well to the call of its name then try when the dog is in another room to you, then extend this to when the dog is in the garden. Remember, in the initial stages it is a good idea to only train before meal times when the dog is more likely to be hungry.

5. Calling the dogs name when preparing the dogs meal is another way of reinforcing the dog’s name.

6. It is important that you do not keep repeating the dogs name over and over in the same tone, if it does not work the first time then change the tone and or clap your hands or stamp your foot.

7. When outside always consider if you are likely to be successful, meaning if the dog is very interested in a smell or a scent then wait until the dog has lifted its head before calling its name. Always train for success and the fewer mistakes made the better.

8. Please keep the name that you choose for your dog as short as possible. Also make sure that all the family are using the name correctly and not changing or altering it as this can be confusing for the dog.

Obedience Exercise 2- Food Routines.

Having enough time every day to train your dog may well be difficult for some new owners, so it is important that our basic daily routines help us to keep control and reinforce our status with the dog. How we feed our dogs can have a dramatic effect not only on the training and motivation of the dog but on how it behaves around food and its feeding habits. The following routines are easy to establish and will be a good basis for further training.

1. The first task is to ensure that the dog looks at you before being allowed to start eating, this can be done by either holding a hand up in front of the dog or the easiest option is to have the dog on the lead and stand up straight holding the dog away from the bowl on the floor.

2. Do not say anything at this stage; just wait for the dog to look at you in the face.

3. As soon as the dog looks at you immediately give a chosen release command, this could be OK or GOOD DOG and then allow the dog to start eating.

4. As the dog learns that he/she has to look at you in the face to get the release to eat, you can then start the amount of time that the dog has to wait for the release command. Remember, the dog may well get frustrated and look away from you but all you have to do is wait for him/her to look at you before releasing.

5. If you are using a lead to help control the dog, try to gently release the tension on the lead as much as possible, particularly as you give the release command.

6. If you have managed to get the dog to wait and look at you for 5 or so seconds then you should now be able to get the dog to sit whilst it waits. It is easier for the dog to sit and look at you in the face so the dog may already be doing this.

7. You can now start to introduce words or commands. Start by getting the dog to sit using the command for sit, then place the bowl on the floor and tell the dog to LEAVE. The dog should now look at you waiting for the release command.

8. You can repeat the word LEAVE more than once if you feel it helps but do not forget to clearly give the release command.

9. Another way to teach this exercise is to use non reward. Pick the bowl up and put it on the side if the dog goes for the food without the release command. Repeat this until the dog learns that its actions of moving towards the bowl without your say so has the reaction of the food being put away.

POINTS TO CONSIDER

-Never leave food down in the bowl for your dog to eat as and when it wants. Why? It is a high ranking privilege to be able to eat when you want, it can create a picky eater and also you will find it difficult to motivate the free fed dog with food treats.

-Always pick the food bowl up the moment the dog walks away from it (even if the food is not finished)

-Sometimes miss out on meals to demonstrate your control and to gain attentiveness from your dog.

-Try to vary the meal times.

Finally it is a good idea to practice in other rooms around the house and in the garden; this can then be extended out to on walks with the use of a small bowl or container.



Obedience Exercise 3-Sit, Stand, Down.

These 3 positions are part of the basics for training your dog. Each position will be useful to you and also form the foundation for more advanced training. Teaching these 3 positions is relatively easy, achieving consistency of voice is more difficult, you must try to be consistent when training your dog, try to use the same firm but positive tone each time you want your puppy to do something.



THE SIT POSITION

1. Take a treat and show the dog what you have in your hand, as the dog becomes interested take the treat and up above the dog’s head, not too high as we do not want the dog to jump up.

2. Usually if the dog’s head has to go up they tend to sit as it is more comfortable to sit whilst looking up. As your dog sits say he word SIT using a firm but positive tone and reward with the food.

NOTE: Do not say the word until the dog is in the sit and the reward immediately. Keep your hand movements slow and precise.

Another way of teaching the SIT is to show your dog the food and then stand up straight, then be patient and wait for the dog to try different things, when the dog does sit, immediately say the word and reward.



THE DOWN POSITION

1. Get the dog to sit using the above and instead of rewarding the dog use the treat to take the dog’s nose down to the floor somewhere between the dogs’ front feet.

2. The dog should follow the food with his/her nose and usually will lie down to be more comfortable, as it does so say DOWN and reward with food treat.

3. If the dog does not lie down, be patient, and try not to move the treat away from the dog, as this will cause the dog to move and not lie down.

4. If the dog lowers its chest and lifts its bum then slowly move the treat towards its chest and you may find they go down fully into the down position, if so say the word and reward.

5. Word association will also work for teaching the dog what words mean. For example your dog will lie down many times during the day, if this happens whilst you are watching the dog then say the word DOWN and immediately reward with a treat and praise.

6. If you have problems with this, you can try using a chair or low table with which you can use the food to maneuver the dog under and if it is at the right height then the dog will have to go into the down position to follow the food. As the dog does get into the down position again say the word and reward, with a little practice you will not have to use this method but can use one or more of the above.



THE STAND POSITION

Why do we need to teach this to our dogs? Well it is easier to groom a dog if they are standing still; it is also easier to check your dog over if they are standing still.

1. Show the dog a treat in your hand and get him/her into the sit position. Do not reward.

2. Take the treat slowly horizontally from the dog’s nose forward and when the dog stands up say STAND and reward.

3. Try to do this exercise slowly as you want the dog to stand and not walk forward.

4. The idea is to get the dog to “pop” his/her bum up rather than walk into the stand position.

Practice these three positions often but not for too long as we do not want to bore the dog, always end whilst the dog is interested and wanting to carry on and finish any obedience session with a game/lots of fuss and praise in order to make the sessions fun.



Obedience Exercise 4 –Teaching the Stay

For many years teaching dog to stay has been one of shouting “stay” and hoping that to dog will eventually get the message. Our training philosophy is one that we are teaching dogs what we want and then putting the words to those actions. This is the best way to teach dogs. We do not want you to yell at your dogs because this can cause stress and this is the last thing we need when teaching stays.



IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THAT YOU SHOULD NEVER MOVE ONTO THE NEXT EXERCISE OR STAGE UNTIL YOUR DOG IS DOING THE EXERCISE 10 OUT OF 10 TIMES…



1. Using the lead tie your dog to something stable and solid; back away three or four feet. Do not say anything at all.

2. Ensure that you have a treat ready in your hand.

3. Now wait for the dog to do something positive like sitting.

4. The very second your dog sits lift your hand with the treat up high and step towards your dog (doing this will keep your dogs head up and sitting) then reward the dog with the treat. REPEAT this three or four times and then finish with a big fuss of the dog, then untie.

5. Please note that you should only reward the dog with a treat and not by physical petting, the reason for this is to keep the dog concentrating and if you fuss the dog before the end it will slow the process down.

6. The principle is to get your dog to learn how to get you back with the food, the dogs actions of sitting get you to come back and reward.

7. Your dog may get up as soon as you walk away again, if so don’t worry, just wait and as soon as the dog sits again, go back and reward him/her. It is important not to use the word SIT, remain silent and wait for your dog to work out what is required.

8. With practice the dog should sit as soon as you tie them up and this is when you can introduce the command stay.

9. You can now start to go a little further away from the dog, but do this gradually.

10. Please note that you will need to go back at random intervals and reward if the dog is doing well.

11. Do not move onto off lead stays until you have practiced these in different places and on walks.

12. When you feel confident that you are ready to have a go without tying your dog up, just loop your lead around the post without securing it, still giving your dog the idea that it is secure and giving you the ability to check whether your dog is staying because it wants to… not because it has to.

13. This exercise is particularly useful for also teaching the puppy not to jump up at people. Whilst doing this exercise if at any time the dog jumps up at you just step away and then wait again for your dog to settle into the sit before approaching to reward.



Obedience Exercise 5-The Recall (you can use the words “Come” or “Heeeere”)

Recall or Come.

1. Teaching the word COME. Sit your dog in front of you and in a bright and positive tone say the word COME then give your dog a treat. Repeat several times.
2. Ensuring your dog is happy about you taking hold of their collar is also important as you don’t want them to see this action as the end to their fun. Again, using several treats, sit your dog in front of you and with your treat in your right hand, touch the collar with your left hand and reward. Then repeat several times.
3. When teaching your dog to come only ever use the word “COME” when your dog is already moving towards you. For instance you could get someone to hold onto your dogs collar as you run away calling your dog, the person then releases the dog so they are chasing you. You then turn and say the word “COME” then you reward enthusiastically when you have got hold of your dog.
4. When you are out on a walk, suddenly walk off in the opposite direction calling your dog and as it starts to chase turn and say the word “COME” and then reward enthusiastically when you have gently taken hold of the dog. If your dog stops chasing and turns away from you instead of coming back turn and run again letting the dog get a little closer before you turn towards it.
5. If you are out on a walk with someone else split up and take it in turns to call the dog between you. A dogs natural instinct will be to try and keep you together so it will be running back and forth between you giving you the opportunity to put the word “COME” into action (with a treat and loads of praise.)
6. If you have other members in your household you can all join in this exercise. Each member needs 4 or 5 treats and you all stand in a circle, take it in turns to call the dog and reward it. You must remember that the only person to reward your dog is the one who called it.
7. When training try not to call the dog when it is obviously sniffing or interested in something else. Wait for it to stop what it is doing and look up then you have the opportunity to call it. This will help to prevent the dog learning to ignore you and the recall.
8.
Take your dog’s favourite toy out with you on your walk and every so often get the toy out and have a game with the dog. Finish the game when the dog is still enjoying the game. Do this 3 or 4 times when on a walk starting the game when your dog is not expecting it.



GOOD ROUTINES

Most new owners of a puppy/dog are not prepared for the amount of work that is requires to raise a puppy/dog into a well behaved and trained dog. If we also take into account our now accepted hectic lifestyles then finding time to have training sessions every day can be difficult for a lot of new dog owners.

This information sheet outlines some routines that will be very important and useful to you on a daily basis, some of them may even keep your dog safe in certain situations. So if you do find the day has gone and you did not get the opportunity to have a short training session, don’t worry, as all through the day you will have been training him/her because of the routines that happen on a daily basis.

TRY TO DO THE FOLLOWING EXERCISES EVERY DAY, MAKE THEM YOUR ROUTINES. YOUR DOG WILL THEN BE REMINDED EVERY DAY OF THE TRAINING AND THAT YOU CONTROL THEM AND THE PLEASANT THINGS THAT HAPPEN TO YOUR DOG.



1. No matter what time of the day you feed your dog try to eat something before the dog, eg, you may be eating out later and so you need to feed the dog, just eat a biscuit or a small piece of fruit whilst the dog is waiting for his/her meal. You should always try to feed your dog using the guidelines set out in the information sheet on food routines but if you have to feed the dog before your own meal then try to do the above. The reason is to demonstrate clearly to the dog that you eat first thus you must be more important than they are.

2. Always ensure that your dog has to sit for the lead to be put on off everywhere, in the house, on walks when you are about to let them off and in the car when you are about to get the dog out of the vehicle. If you have problems then put the lead away and go and sit down, a few minutes later try again and if the dog still plays up repeat this until the dog realizes that by not sitting it does not get to go out for a walk. Persevere, create the habit and reap the rewards.

3. Ensuring that you control when the dog is allowed freedom is going to help you have a better behaved dog, when you are about to let the dog off the lead, get the dog to sit using the hand signal and then put one hand in the collar and with your other hand take the lead off. Once the lead is off send the dog away from you using a command like “GO PLAY” and as you release the dog turn away and walk or jog away from them.

4. Always try to ensure that your dog has to sit before being greeted by you, visitors to the home, strangers in the street and particularly children. Using the sit hand signal with food in the hand will help and soon as the dog has sat then reward with the food and then by praising and fussing. If at any stage the dog jumps up, immediately fold your hands, stand up straight and ignore the dog, as soon as the dog puts all four feet back on the ground carry on fussing and repeating the above if necessary. You may meet people who want to fuss your dog and if so that is great for socializing but not great if they allow the dog to jump up at them, as this can grow into an embarrassing habit for you, so do not allow people to do this. If people want to greet your dog insist that they do this properly and if they do not listen then immediately take the dog away.

5. When arriving home always try to greet human members of the family before the dog, even if the dog is there at the door when you come through it. This sounds harsh but there is a very good reason for this. Dogs control each other on a social level. This means that who is greeted first, by important members of the pack (family), must be high ranking or important, so by greeting the dog first the wife or husband or partner, we are telling the dog that they are not as important as he/she is, and believe you me that is how they see this.

6. Try to have areas of the house that are off limits unless you specifically invite them in to these rooms or areas, such as upstairs and bedrooms, the same should be for furniture. If you are going to allow your dog onto the furniture then insist that only happens when you say and not when the dog makes the decision to do so. This will help to impress upon the dog that you are more important than he/she is because you have access and they do not, also you control that access. If you are wondering how to do this then invest in one or two stairs gates, as these are great for controlling access and having time out from the dog without shutting doors.

7. Your dog may develop bad habits as well as good ones. How many bad habits your dog has by the time they are twelve months old will depend on you and the breed of dog. Take into consideration, that often prevention is often easier and better than cure. This means if your dog raids the kitchen bin whilst you are out of the room reorganize and have the bin in a cupboard or place they cannot get to. Rather than trying to cure the problem, prevent it from becoming a habit. Look at the following points for help on this topic.

Never chase your dog when playing, always get the dog to chase you. Who chases who, when playing is important role-playing and the one that is chased controls the game.

Always get the dog to sit/stand at kerbs before you go across the road, this helps with training and with road safety.

When the dog picks something up you do not want him to, DO NOT CHASE but encourage him to bring it to you. This is far better as you will always be able to then get something off the dog if they are in the habit of bringing what they pick up to you. For objects that you regard as acceptable they can be rewarded with a treat and/or a fuss but for non-acceptable, valuable or dangerous items you should NOT reward, just remove to a place where the dog cannot get it again.

If your dog growls over a bone then it may be best not to give bones to them until you know how to deal with this. Many owners have been bitten and then become scared of their dog because of this reason. The dog then learns or discovers that you are frightened of him/her they will become anxious and may also take advantage of this situation and it can be difficult for owners whose dogs have learnt how to intimidate them.

It is your responsibility to care for and control your dog, establishing good routines as soon as your dog arrives home will help you to have a happy and well behaved dog.

8. Get into the habit of examining your dog every day. This will help to pick up ailments at an early stage (and could save expensive vet bills!) and will also get your dog used to being examined so when you do go to the vets with him/her it will be no big deal.

Try to examine your dog in a similar manner to a vet a way to do this is:

-With a treat trapped in a closed hand and held directly in front of your dog’s nose (so they concentrate on the treat) start by checking your dog’s nose, mouth, eyes, and ears. As you do so say nose, mouth, eyes, ears. If your dog is initially nervous about this to start just touch the areas and then gradually build up to a full check over time.

-What you are looking for is anything out of the normal i.e. stones/sticks trapped between the teeth, discharge from the nose eyes, grass seeds in ears etc.

-If you check your dog regularly you will know when something is not right.

-Signs of an ear infection are your dog shaking its head continually, rubbing head along floor, and obsessively scratching the ear. If you smell inside the ear and it stinks then that indicates towards an ear infection also.

-Once the head is checked reward the dog and then place another treat under the dog’s nose. Slide your free hand down the nape of the neck and then pinch and massage the area of the dog’s shoulders (to simulate an injection). Continue to slide your hand down the dog’s body (checking for any lumps and bumps) to the dog’s tail, and then lift the tail to check around the dog’s bottom. Again you are looking for any discharge or anything out of the normal. Then reward your dog.

- Place another treat under the dog’s nose and then finally check the dog’s legs and paws. Many dogs do not enjoy having their legs and paws handled as these are areas of control for a dog. Slide your hands over these areas, checking between the toes for anything trapped. If your dog does not like these areas being checked start by just touching the feet and legs and then rewarding. Over time gradually build up to a full examination.

-If possible get as many people as possible to examine your dog. The more people that do this (including strangers) the more comfortable the dog will be with being examined. So when you go to the vets your dog will be the ideal patient.

Dog Crates - A Guide

Why a dog crate?

A dog crate is a cage usually made of wire and its purpose is to provide custody for reasons of safety, house-breaking, protection of property, travel or illness. You may think that putting your pet in a crate is cruel or inhumane and might cause your pet to resent you or to be psychologically damaged. However, dogs view a crate very differently than us humans.
As your dog sees it, the crate is his little room or space - a "cosy den". The crate helps to satisfy the "den instinct" inherited from his den-dwelling ancestors and relatives. Your pet will enjoy the feeling of security he gets from his crate and a reduction in anxiety because he knows that's his space. It may take a few days or up to a couple of weeks to get him completely used to the idea that it's his personal area but when he does he will happily go to it of his own accord. Your dog wants to please you and you want to enjoy him. The crate can help you achieve a better relationship with your pet by preventing unwanted behaviour when you aren't available to supervise him.
The advantages of using a crate
• You can enjoy peace of mind when leaving your dog alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed and that he is comfortable, safe and not developing bad habits.
• You can housetrain your pet more quickly by using the close confinement to motivate your pet to wait until taken outside, since canines naturally avoid soiling their den.
• You can travel with your pet without risk of the dog getting loose and becoming lost or interfering with safe driving.
• Your dog can enjoy the security and privacy of den of his own to which he can retreat when tired or stressed.
• Your dog can avoid much of the fear and confusion caused by your reaction to problem behaviour.
• Since he can more easily adapt to staying in unfamiliar places as long as he has his familiar "security blanket" along, your pet can be included in family outings, instead of being left behind alone.
Purchasing a crate
For your pet's comfort, look for one with a smooth floor not ridged. Make sure it is large enough for your pet to stretch out on its side and to sit or stand erect. If you have a puppy, it is more economical to buy a wire crate that will accommodate him as an adult but while he is a puppy put a box in the crate to reduce his area so that it is snug and he doesn't use one end to do his business and the other end to sleep. A movable wire or pegboard partition can be made or purchased. For bedding, use an old blanket or buy a washable crate pad.


Where should I put it?
Because canines are pack and social animals they like to be with the pack in that social environment so try to place the crate in an area where the family spends a lot of time like the lounge kitchen or family room, etc. The top of the crate can serve as extra shelf or table space. At night, move your puppy's crate into your bedroom so you can hear him if he needs to go out.
Crating a puppy
A young puppy will usually have no problem accepting the crate as his space. Any yelping or whimpering at first is probably caused, not by the crate, but by adjusting to an unfamiliar place. Try not reward barking or whining with attention! If you are sure he doesn't need to eliminate, ignore him until he is quiet, then praise him or take him out of the crate. Do not leave meals in the crate or feed your puppy immediately prior to confining him. Most puppies will spill water left in the crate. Do leave a safe chew or toy in the crate for your pet. Close your pet in the crate whenever he must be left alone or can't be closely supervised by a responsible person. Never crate your pet longer than you know he can wait to eliminate, and definitely less than 4 hour intervals during the day. If you occasionally must be gone longer than this, place the crate with the door open in an enclosed area such as a bathroom or laundry room. Put newspapers on the floor of the room to enable easier cleaning of the area. Your puppy should soon stop eliminating overnight and then may be crated in his regular place.
Crate training dogs over 6 months
Often problem behaviour in this age group is the result of feeling insecure when left alone. A crate can actually help alleviate this anxiety, but it must be introduced gradually and in a positive way. The dog's first association with the crate should be as pleasant as possible. First secure the door open so that it can't suddenly shut and frighten the dog. Encourage your pet to enter voluntarily by tossing a treat into the far end, praising him enthusiastically once he enters, then letting him come right back out. Once he enters the crate confidently, coax him to lie down and relax, using treats if necessary. Shut the door briefly, while you sit beside the crate or when there are people in the room. Again, don't reward barking or whining, with attention.
When you feel your dog will remain quietly in the crate, leave him alone for 15 - 30 minutes. If all goes well, you can leave him for longer intervals. Eventually, you may no longer need to shut him in the crate, but he will probably appreciate still having access to his special place.
Does the crate always work?
Most of the time but there are some dogs (normally adults) that do not want to feel confined and a few will even mess in their crate.
Use - don't abuse!
Children should be taught that the crate is a special room for the pet and that they should not pester the dog or pup when it is in the crate or use the crate as a play area.
1. The use of a dog crate is NOT RECOMMENDED for a dog regularly left alone all day, although some individual animals can tolerate it. If it is attempted:
o The pet must be well exercised before and after crating.
o The crate must be equipped with a heavy, non-tip dish of water.
o Your pet should get lots of attention and complete freedom each night.
2. If you do not have time to take a puppy or dog outside to eliminate and exercise as recommended here, you should reconsider getting a dog as a pet. Crate or no crate, any dog consistently denied the attention and companionship it craves, may still find ways to express bored anxiety, and stress
IMPORTANT IF YOUR PET SHOWS ANY SIGN OF ANXIETY IN THE CRATE USE THESE STEPS UNTIL YOUR PET IS HAPPY IN THE CRATE.

If an anxious pet is left un-trained and alone in the cage it could cause permanent damage to the cage or to your pet

Crate training your dog may take some time and effort, but can be useful in a variety of situations. If you have a new dog or puppy; you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns the entire house rules – like what he can and can’t chew on and where he can and can’t eliminate. A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as a way of taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he’ll think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed.

Selecting A Crate

Your dog’s crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in when full Adult size if the crate is to be used for the life of your pet

The Crate Training Process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training. The crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps - don’t go too fast, as this can cause anxiety in your pet and an overall fear and dislike of the new crate.

Step 1: Introducing Your Dog to the Crate
Put the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room.
Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is securely fastened opened so it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.
To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats near it, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay – don’t force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals in the Crate
After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, put the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If your dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. At first, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it’s imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he’ll keep doing it.

Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog for Longer Time Periods
After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you’re home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter such as, "kennel up." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate. Repeat this process several times a day.

With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks

Step 4: Crating Your Dog When Left Alone:

After your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. You’ll want to vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.

Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.
Part 5: Crating Your Dog at Night:

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn’t become associated with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer.
Potential Problems Too Much Time In The Crate

A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, he’s spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time.

Whining
If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you followed the training procedures outlined above, your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate.

Try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don’t give in, otherwise you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you’ll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation Anxiety

Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won’t solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself or damage the crate in an attempt to escape from the crate.

Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures.
You may want to consult a professional animal behaviorist for help or try yourself, with our help chapter below.
Dogs with separation anxiety exhibit behavior problems when they’re left alone. Typically, they’ll have a dramatic anxiety response within a short time (20-45 minutes) after their owners leave them. The most common of these behaviors are:

Digging, chewing and scratching at doors or windows in an attempt to escape and reunite with their owners.
Howling, barking and crying in an attempt to get their owner to return.
Urination and defecation (even with housetrained dogs), as a result of distress.

Why Do Dogs Suffer From Separation Anxiety?

We don’t fully understand exactly why some dogs suffer from separation anxiety and, under similar circumstances, others don’t. It’s important to realize, however, that the destruction and house soiling that often occurs with separation anxiety is not the dog’s attempt to punish or seek revenge on his owner for leaving him alone, but is actually a panic response, not unlike a Human Panic Attack

Separation anxiety sometimes occurs when:

1. Dog has never or rarely been left alone.
2. Following a long interval, such as a vacation, during which the owner and dog are constantly together.
3. After a traumatic event (from the dog’s point of view) such as a period of time spent at a shelter or boarding kennel.
4. After a change in the family’s routine or structure (a child leaving for college, a change in work schedule, a move to a new home, a new pet or person in the home).

What To Do If Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety

For a minor separation anxiety problem, the following techniques may be helpful by themselves.
Keep arrivals and departures low-key. For example, when you arrive home, ignore your dog for the first few minutes, and then calmly pet him.

Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like you, an old tee shirt that you’ve slept in recently, for example.
Establish a "safety cue"--a word or action that you use every time you leave that tells your dog you’ll be back. Dogs usually learn to associate certain cues with short absences by their owners. For example, when you take out the Rubbish, your dog knows you come right back and doesn't become anxious. Therefore, it’s helpful to associate a safety cue with your practice departures and short-duration absences.

Some examples of safety cues are: a playing radio; a playing television; a bone; or a toy (one that doesn’t have dangerous fillings and can’t be torn into pieces). Use your safety cue during practice sessions, but don’t present your dog with the safety cue when you leave for a period of time longer than he can tolerate or the value of the safety cue will be lost. Leaving a radio on to provide company for your dog isn’t particularly useful by itself, but a playing radio may work if you’ve used it consistently as a safety cue in your practice sessions. If your dog engages in destructive chewing as part of his separation distress, offering him a chewing item as a safety cue is a good idea. Very hard rubber toys that can be stuffed with treat and Rope toys.

It's a lot to read but they might help some people just thought I'd share it

Tis a lot to read isn't it we can review these and then maybe include them in our advice sections thanks for sharing with us

It's not a problem at all